Day 47 – Newquay to Bideford

It’s just three days to go before we complete our entire coastal road trip!  Today we are finishing off north Cornwall, driving alongside its famous golden sandy beaches, before we re-enter Devon as we drive towards Bideford.


Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Hartland Quay, Sunset, Reflection on car bonnet
The sun setting as we headed down to Hartland Quay.


Holywell Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Holywell, Bay, Beach, National Trust, Shadow
Long shadows in the early morning sun.  We made our first stop of the day looping back from Newquay to the National Trust’s Holywell Beach.
Coastal Road Trip, Holywell, Bay, Beach, National Trust, Penhale Point
Walking past the sand dunes towards Carter’s Rocks (AKA Gull Rocks) off Penhale Point.
Coastal Road Trip, Holywell, Bay, Beach, National Trust, Sunrise, Shells
Shells and their shadows scattered across Holywell Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Crantock Beach, National Trust, Cornwall, Gannel estuary, Rushy Green
The Gannel Estuary at Crantock Beach, beside Rushy Green.



Coastal Road Trip, Newquay, Fistral Beach, Towan Headland
So it was a morning full of beaches… next stop the famous Fistral Beach, a surfers paradise, but none out this morning – yet.
Coastal Road Trip, Newquay, Bay, Lusty Glaze Beach, Views back to Towan Headland
Views back across Newquay Bay from the cliffs above the curiously named Lusty Glaze Beach (The Times Beach of the Year 2017)…
Coastal Road Trip, Bedruthan Steps, Trevose Head, Newquay, Lusty Glaze Beach
…and the view north towards Bedruthan Steps and beyond to Trevose Head.


Watergate Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Watergate Bay, Beach, Cornwall, B3276
The wide open sands of Watergate Bay, as we headed along the scenic B3276 coastal road.
Coastal Road Trip, Newquay Airport, Plane, Overhead, Blue Sky, Watergate Bay
A small plane flying overhead into nearby Newquay Airport.


Mawgan Porth

Coastal Road Trip, Mawgan Porth, River Menalhyl, Cornwall
The River Menalhyl streaming down Mawgan Porth Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Bedruthan Steps, Cliffs, National Trust, Carnewas
Peering over the Carnewas cliffs at Bedruthan.
Coastal Road Trip, Bedruthan Steps, Carnewas, Pendarves Island, Queen Bess Rock, Diggory's Island, Park Head, Trevose Head Lighthouse
Dramatic views north past Pendarves Island, Queen Bess Rock, Diggory’s Island and Park Head.  In the distance you can just about make-out Trevose Head Lighthouse.


Treyarnon Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Treyarnon Bay, Beach, Padstow
Another beautiful empty beach west of Padstow at Treyarnon Bay.


Constantine Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Constantine Bay, Chair Cove, Cornwall, South West Coast Path
The South West Coastal Path along Chair Cove, behind some rather expensive looking houses at Constantine Bay.  Some locals walking a dog stopped to talk to us, and asked if we were bankers!?… it seemed many locals were!



Coastal Road Trip, Harlyn Bay, Beach, Dog Walking, Padstow, Cornwall
We seemed to be the only people on Cornwall’s beaches this morning not walking a dog 😉



Coastal Road Trip, Padstow, Cornwall, Alley, Blue doors
A little alley in Padstow, AKA ‘Padstein’ after its famous local celebrity chef – Rick Stein.
Coastal Road Trip, Padstow, Harbour, Fishing Port
Small fishing boats lining the quay.  Quiet at this time of year, but heaving with tourists in the summer.
Coastal Road Trip, Padstow, River Camel, Rock
The coastal village of Rock, beyond the sandbank in the River Camel.  We will drive past Rock as we continue northeast, but as we had been last year, we won’t stop this time.



Coastal Road Trip, Polzeath, Padstow Bay, River Camel
Looping all the way around the River Camel, we made a brief stop to watch the surfers on Polzeath’s Beach.


Port Quin

Coastal Road Trip, Port Quin, National Trust, Inlet, Cottage, Fishing Port, Cornwall
Driving past The Rumps we stopped at the cosy Port Quin inlet, taken care of by the National Trust.


Port Isaac

Coastal Road Trip, Port Isaac, Julian, Jarno
Driving to Port Isaac we realised we were going to end up driving right through the tiny village.  We had remembered the lanes were really narrow from our trip here last year, so re-routed to park at the top of the village and walk down.
Coastal Road Trip, Port Isaac, Doc Martin, Fore Street
The TV series Doc Martin is filmed in Port Isaac.  To be honest we have never watched Doc Martin so weren’t as excited as some visitors….
Coastal Road Trip, Port Isaac, Varley Head
Choppy waters at the mouth of Port Isaac looking towards Varley Head.
Coastal Road Trip, Port Isaac, Port Isaac Bay, Treknow
Port Isaac Bay, with views northeast to Treknow.


St Teath

Coastal Road Trip, St Teath, Green Field, Farm Gate, Port Isaac Bay
Catching another glimpse of Port Isaac Bay over the fields near St Teath.



Coastal Road Trip, Tintagel Castle, Seagull, English Heritage
Wow, what a perfect day to visit.  Tintagel Castle is normally packed with tourists, today it was just us and a few seagulls.  So if you want to avoid the crowds come on a Monday afternoon in November 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Tintagel Castle, English Heritage, Cove
The remains of the 13th century castle perched on the jagged slate cliffs.
Coastal Road Trip, Tintagel Castle, Julian, Jarno, English Heritage
The castle had been built here by Earl Richard of Cornwall, believing it to be the birthplace of King Arthur.



Coastal Road Trip, Boscastle, River Valency, National Trust, National Trust, Flood
Boscastle had been devastated by the flooding of the River Valency in 2002, but has since been lovingly restored.
Coastal Road Trip, Boscastle, Valency Row, Cottages, Cobbled Lane, Cornwall
Fishing cottages down the cobbled Valency Row in Boscastle.



Coastal Road Trip, Widemouth Bay, Beach, Dizzard Point
Widemouth Beach, popular with surfers, with Dizzard Point in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, Widemouth Bay, Beach, Blue Sky, White Clouds, Zip
The clouds were parting like a zip to reveal the blue sky above Widemouth Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Bude, Beach Huts
At last!…. beach huts again on Summerleaze Beach at Bude, we had been missing beach huts on this stretch of coast.
Coastal Road Trip, Bude Canal, Haven, Lock
The entrance to the Bude Canal.  Started in the 1820s with the idea to link the English and Bristol Channels… however it didn’t get very far with the arrival of the railway later in the 19th century.
Coastal Road Trip, GCHQ Bude, Satellite Dishes
Leaving Bude and heading along the Hartland Cornwall Heritage Coast towards Morwenstow, the view was dominated by the satellite dishes at GCHQ Bude.



Coastal Road Trip, Morwenstow, Church, Church of St Morwenna and St John the Baptist, National Trust, Hawker's Hut, Most northernmost point of Cornwall
Before leaving Cornwall we stopped at Morwenstow, Cornwall’s northernmost point.  We had intended to walk to the Hawker’s Hut along the cliffs.  But a very muddy field was slowing our progress, we weren’t exactly sure we were on the right track, and light was fading fast.  So we made do with the Church of St Morwenna and St John the Baptist across the fields.


Hartland Quay

Coastal Road Trip, Hartland Quay, Sunset, Reflection on car bonnet
On the way to Bideford, we made our final stop of the day at Hartland Quay.  As we drove down the coastal track the sunset reflected beautifully off the car bonnet.  Originally we had planned to also stop further along the coast at Clovelly, but it seems it was probably closed, and it would have been dark by then anyway.  Oh well, we will leave Clovelly for another trip!


Daily video

Day 46 – Helston to Newquay

We will be driving just over one-hundred miles today as we head along the south coast of Cornwall to Land’s End, and back up the north coast towards Newquay.  The weather has improved from yesterday’s miserable effort – yay!


Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Porthcurno, Beach, Turquoise Sea, Sunshine, Blue Sky, Cornwall
The stunning Porthcurno Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Portleven, West side of The Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall, Sea spray
After leaving our base for the night at Helston, we drove straight down to the coast at Portleven to take in the early morning views back down the west side of the the Lizard Peninsula.
Coastal Road Trip, Portleven, Harbour, The Ship Inn, Breakwater, Cornwall
Portleven Harbour was just waking up on this early Sunday morning.



Coastal Road Trip, Rinsey Cove, Wheal Prosper, National Trust, Tin, Copper, Mine,
At Rinsey Cove we walked down to Wheal Prosper, an old engine house that was used to pump water out of undersea copper and tin mines.  Even the National Trust car park had been built above an old mine shaft.
Coastal Road Trip, Rinsey, Cove, Head, Mount's Bay, View to Mousehole, House on cliffs
Wow, what a position for a house.  Perched on Rinsey Head with magnificent views across Mount’s Bay to Mousehole, Black Rock and Lamorna.


Marazion and St Michael’s Mount

Coastal Road Trip, St Michael's Mount, National Trust, Ferry Boat, View from Marazion
St Michael’s Mount across Mount’s Bay came into view as we drove towards Marazion.   Over the years the original Abbey on the island was absorbed into a fort, then later a grand house built by the St Aubyn family.  When we have time we would like to go back and take the ferry across to explore the small island properly.



Coastal Road Trip, Penzance, Egyptian House, Chapel Street
Penzance was a curious town, and like Falmouth yesterday, it was larger than we had expected.  Walking down Chapel street we came across the unusual Egyptian House.
Coastal Road Trip, Penzance, Chapel Street, Pirate on the roof, Admiral Benbow Inn
Further down the road there was a Cornish pirate on the roof of the local pub (Admiral Benbow Inn).
Coastal Road Trip, Penzance, St Mary the Virgin Church, Palm Trees
Cutting down to the harbour, tall palm trees surrounded St Mary the Virgin Church.
Coastal Road Trip, Penzance, Jubilee Outdoor Bathing Pool
The very smart and newly renovated Penzance Jubilee Outdoor Bathing Pool.  Remind us, where are we again?  It looked like the Mediterranean not Cornwall…
Coastal Road Trip, Penzance, Pirates, Mural. The Bridge Bar, Waterside Meadery
More pirates at the next pub!



Coastal Road Trip, Newlyn South Pier Lighthouse, Harbour, Newlyn Pier and Harbour Commission
The Newlyn South Pier Lighthouse at the entrance to Newlyn harbour, just southwest of Penzance.   The harbour is home to the largest fishing fleet in Britain.



Coastal Road Trip, Mousehole, Rockpool, Cafe, Orange bunting
Yes, you read right, there is a place called Mousehole.  What a cool name, though it is actually pronounced ‘Mowzall’.  We stopped by the Rockpool Cafe to look at the views across Mount’s Bay….
Coastal Road Trip, Mousehole, Cornwall, Mount's Bay
…. and south to the granite cottages overlooking Mousehole’s harbour front.   We then set-off to wind our way through its narrow Cornish lanes.



Coastal Road Trip, Lamorna, Valley, B3315, Trout Stream, Cove, Lane, Trees
Continuing on towards Land’s End, we drove alongside a trout stream, through the beautifully wooded Lamorna Valley, down to Lamorna Cove.
Coastal Road Trip, Lamorna Cove, Quay, Waste tips, Cottages, Granite Quarry, London Thames Embankment,
Waste from the cove’s 19th and early 20th century granite quarries was precariously heaped down the hillside.  The cottages looked a little to close to those huge boulders for comfort.  The quarries had been used to provide granite to build London’s Thames Embankment.
Coastal Road Trip, Lamorna Cove, Quay, Storm Damage, Carn Dhu, Black Rock. Mount's Bay
The view out past Black Rock to Mount’s Bay.  Wandering around the quay, we noticed this sign on the way back to the car… bit late.
Coastal Road Trip, Lamorna Cove, Quay, Clear Water
The cove’s waters were crystal clear.
Coastal Road Trip, Lamorna Cove Cafe, Closed Sign, see you in 2018
No chance of having our morning coffee here, the Lamorna Cove Cafe was closed until next year.



Coastal Road Trip, Porthcurno, The Minack Theatre, Open Air, Rowena Cade, Blue Sea
The truly spectacular open-air Minack Theatre at Porthcurno, with its stunning turquoise sea backdrop.  The brainchild of Rowena Cade, who started building the theatre with her gardener in the early 1930s, a true inspiration.  The entry fee also included access to a small but interesting exhibition telling the theatre’s story.
Coastal Road Trip, Porthcurno, The Minack Theatre, Tiered Seating, Stage, Cornwall
The theatre really was the highlight of our day.  We would love to come back in season and join the 80,000 people that enjoy a performance here every year.
Coastal Road Trip, Porthcurno, Beach, Turquoise Sea, Sunshine, Blue Sky, Cornwall
Porthcurno Beach, next to the Minack Theatre, was equally impressive.  The golden sand and the turquoise sea were glowing in the midday sun.


Land’s End

Coastal Road Trip, Land's End, Sign post, Julian, Jarno
Finally we reached Land’s End, the most westerly point of mainland England and Cornwall.  Land’s End should be 838 miles by road from the most northeasterly point of mainland Britain, John o’ Groats.  However, after leaving John o’ Groats on day 24, we traveled the long way around! 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Lands End, Longships Lighthouse, Waves crashing on rocks, Carn Bras
The rather brutal looking Longships Lighthouse, just off Land’s End on Carn Bras.
Coastal Road Trip, Lands End, Waves crashing on rocks
Waves crashing over the rocky coastline surrounding Land’s End.
Coastal Road Trip, Lands End, Whitsand Bay, Cape Cornwall
We had great views north from Land’s End across the rather choppy Whitsand Bay to Cape Cornwall.



Coastal Road Trip, Pendeen, Levant Mine, National Trust, Chiney, Beam Engine
Driving north along Whitsand Bay, we arrived at Pendeen and the National Trust’s Levant Mine.  Like Wheal Prosper this morning, these were the remains of engine houses that pumped water from the undersea copper and tin mines.
Coastal Road Trip, Pendeen, Levant Mine, National Trust, Beam Engine, Tin, Copper, Mine
The National Trust had restored many of the buildings, and the site contains the only remaining and operating Cornish beam steam engine in the world.
Coastal Road Trip, Pendeen Watch Lighthouse, Levant Mine, Cornwall
From the Levant Mine we could also see Pendeen Watch Lighthouse, looking out across Cornwall’s northwestern peninsula.  Though it was tricky to get a good shot, as it was so windy.


Carn Galver

Coastal Road Trip, Carn Galver, B3306, Zennor
As we passed another National Trust mine at Carn Galver, the coastal road started to feel more barren and windswept.



Coastal Road Trip, Zennor, St Senara's Church
St Senara’s Church in the small village of Zennor.  Alphabetically, Zennor is the last parish in Britain…. random fact of the day! 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Zennor to St Ives, B3306, Road, Treveal, Atlantic Ocean
Continuing along the B3306 towards St Ives we had sweeping views past Treveal to the Atlantic Ocean.


St Ives

Coastal Road Trip, St Ives, Porthmeor Beach, St Nicholas Chapel
Arriving in St Ives, we made our first stop at Porthmeor Beach looking towards St Nicholas Chapel on the headland.
Coastal Road Trip, St Ives, Porthmeor Beach, Rocks, Waves Crashing, Southwest Coastal Path
Waves were crashing against the rocks below the Southwest Coastal Path.
Coastal Road Trip, St Ives, Sea Spray, Behind Porthmeor and Tate, Barnoon graveyard cemetery
Salty sea spray filled the the afternoon air behind Porthmeor Beach and the Tate St Ives.
Coastal Road Trip, St Ives New Lighthouse, St Ives, Harbour Beach, Smeatons Pier
As we left the town we looked back at the Harbour Beach and the St Ives New Lighthouse at the end of  Smeatons Pier.  We had seen its identical twin lighthouse yesterday morning at Mevagissey…. who would have know this trip would lead to a deeper lighthouse interest and knowledge! 😉



Coastal Road Trip, Gwithian Beach, St Ives Bay, Sunset, Kite-surfers
Looking back across St Ives Bay and kite-surfers enjoying the breeze at Gwithian Beach.
Coastal Road Trip, Gwithian Beach, St Ives Bay, Windy, Julian, Jarno
We look a bit cold at windy Gwithian Beach!
Coastal Road Trip, Godrevy Lighthouse, Island, Point, Gwithian Beach, St Ives Bay
Godrevy Island and its lighthouse, northeast along Gwithian Beach.


Godrevy-Portreath Heritage Coast

Coastal Road Trip, Hell's Mouth, Navax Point, Godrevy-Portreath Heritage Coast, National Trust
Driving along the cliff tops towards Portreath we stopped to peer over the edge of Hell’s Mouth towards Navax Point.
Coastal Road Trip, North Cliffs, St Agnes Head, Godrevy-Portreath Heritage Coast, National Trust
Then a little further along the coastal road, the red North Cliffs seemed to be crumbling away.  You can just make out St Agnes Head in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, North Cliffs, Sun Rays, Clouds, Godrevy-Portreath Heritage Coast
Looking behind us, golden sun-rays were bursting through the cloudy late afternoon sky.



Porthtowan, Beach, Village, Cornwall
Continuing our journey towards Newquay, we made a quick stop to look down on Porthtowan Beach.


Chapel Porth

Coastal Road Trip, Chapel Porth Beach, Pebbles, National Trust, Cornwall
The National Trust Chapel Porth Beach was nestled into a cosy quiet cove just south of St Agnes Head.



Coastal Road Trip, Perranporth Beach, The Watering Hole, Dusk
The sunlight had almost gone by the time we reached Perranporth Beach, hence a slightly grainy picture!  But the Watering Hole cafe lit up on the beach looked quite inviting.  Newquay was our next stop for the night.


Daily video

Day 45 – St Austell to Helston

Today we will be driving down to the most southerly point of mainland Britain, having already visited the most westerly, northerly and easterly points earlier on this trip!  The unpredictable British weather has generally been kind to us along our journey, but today will be very wet…


Photo of the day

Coatal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Yellow Fishing Boat, FH26
Fishing boats at Cadgwith Cove.



Coastal Road Trip, Pentewan, St Austell River
After leaving St Austell we followed the St Austell River to Pentewan.  We were going to get soaking wet if we had walked to the beach, so made do with visiting the village set-back from the seafront.
Coastal Road Trip, B3273, Pentewan to Mevagissey, Rainy, Green fields, Valley, SW Coastal Path
Leaving Pentewan heading to Mevagissey with views over the rolling fields to the coast.



CCoastal Road Trip, Mevagissey, Cornwall, Harbour, Red Fishing Boat, Resolute
Mevagissey was still slowly waking up on this rainy Saturday morning.  Everyone else had clearly decided it was better to stay in bed.
Coastal Road Trip, Mevagissey, Cornwall, Harbour, View, Raining
Mevagissey still has a working fishing harbour, but it was very quiet this morning.


Gorran Haven

Coastal Road Trip, Gorran Haven, Church Street, Narrow Street
We had just driven down the crazy narrow Church Street into Gorran Haven.
Coastal Road Trip, Gorran Haven, Beach, Stream, Cornwall
A stream tumbling down Gorran Haven Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Porthluney, Caerhays Beach, Estate, Castle
A few paddle-boarders were testing the waves at Porthluney Beach, at the foot of the Caerhays Estate.



Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, Cottages, Cornwall
Portloe was a really cosy coastal village.  It had a lovely genuine feel to it.
Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, Harbour, Julian, Jarno
The small boat slipway nestled into the valley.
Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, 3 Maidens Boat, Lugger, Harbour, Cornwall
A rather rocky looking entrance to the tiny harbour.



Coastal Road Trip, Pendower Beach, Gerrans Bay, Rain, National Trust, The Roseland Heritage Coast
As we arrived at the National Trust Pendower Beach the heavens opened and it absolutely poured with rain.  After a while we made a quick dash for the beach with our umbrellas, and through the rain manged to catch views across Gerrans Bay.


St Mawes

Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Tredenham Road, Roseland Peninsula
We then continued our journey down the Roseland Peninsula to St Mawes.
Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Castle, English Heritage, Roseland Peninsula
We had visited St Mawes and the castle last year with Julian’s parents, so we just made a brief stop in the small town.  However, we still managed enough time to squeeze in a morning coffee and sausage roll from the famous local Curtis bakery.
Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Harbour, Ferry
The passenger ferry to Falmouth in St Mawes Harbour.


St Just in Roseland

Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Lych Gate
St Just’s Church tower peeping above the trees through the church lych gate.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church
The 13th century St Just’s Church in a charming wooded valley overlooking Carrick Roads.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Messages on Tree, Holy Well
Exploring the church grounds.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Nave, Interior, Altar
The church was quite compact inside, it felt almost chapel like.


King Harry Ferry

Coastal Road Trip, King Harry Ferry, Philleigh to Feock, River Fal
Avoiding a long trip north via Truro, we cut across the River Fal from Philleigh to Feock on the King Harry Ferry.
Coastal Road Trip, King Harry Ferry, Philleigh to Feock, River Fal, Captain, Dummy
The ferry captain kept watch as we crossed the river.
Coastal Road Trip, River Fal, Nederland Reefer, Ship
A surprisingly large Dutch ship was anchored in the River Fal.



Coastal Road Trip, Trelissick, National Trust, Julian, Jarno, Channals Creek, River Fal
Exploring the National Trust Trelissick grounds, looking down to Channals Creek and the River Fal.  Still raining!



Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, The Wheel House, Carrick Roads
We made our next stop at Falmouth, which was much larger and busier than we had been expecting.  It actually made quite a nice change from the quiet fishing villages.  We discovered the port is the busiest in Cornwall.
Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, Beach Huts, Discovery Quay
Yay!  Finally we found some ‘beach huts’ in Cornwall at Falmouth’s Discovery Quay.
Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, Falmouth Custom House Quay
Falmouth’s Custom House Quay, with Flushing and Carrick Roads through the drizzle in the background.



Coastal Road Trip, Pendennis Head, St Anthony Lighthouse
From Pendennis Head we could just about see across to St Anthony Lighthouse south of St Mawes.


Gyllyngvase Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth Bay
Gyllyngvase Beach just south of Falmouth, overlooking Falmouth Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Gweek, Helford River, Boats
As we continued our journey south to the Lizard peninsula we crossed over the Helford River at Gweek.



Coastal Road Trip, Goonhilly Earth Station, Satellite Dish, Goonhilly Downs National Nature Reserve
The satellite dishes at Goonhilly Earth Station suddenly appeared on the horizon, so we made a quick stop at the nearby Goonhilly Downs National Nature Reserve to take a closer look.



Coastal Road Trip, Coverack, Beach, Cove, Lowland Point
Coverack Beach and Cove with views over to Lowland Point.  The small village was still recovering from a flash flood that had damaged property and the sea wall earlier in the year.



Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Yellow Fishing Boat, FH26
A sunshine yellow fishing boat adding a bit of colour to this grey day.
Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Crab, Shack, Crows Nest
Cadgwith Cove felt like another cozy and authentic Cornish village.
Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Narrow Street, New Road, Inn, The Old Cellars
Cottages nestled around the narrow streets.


The Lizard

Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Sign Post, Heritage Centre
Finally we made it to The Lizard.
Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Lighthouse
The Lizard Lighthouse, dating back to 1752, sitting above the lighthouse keeper cottages.
Coatal Road Trip, Lizard Point, National Trust, Most Southerly Point of Mainland Britain
Lizard Point, the most southerly point of mainland Britain.
Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Julian, Jarno
On day 17 of our coastal road trip we visited the most westerly point of mainland Britain at Ardnamurchan.  On day 24 we visited the most northerly point at Dunnet Head.  On day 35 we reached the most easterly point at Ness Point.  Then today (day 45) we finally reached the most southerly point at Lizard Point!
Coastal Road Trip, Lizard Point, Most Southerly Point of Mainland Britain
And it was so quiet, just us and another couple.  Hint, to miss the crowds visit on a cold rainy late Saturday afternoon in November!  So that was our final stop of the day before we drove back up the western side of the Lizard peninsula to Helston for the night.


Daily video

Day 44 – Plymouth to St Austell

On day forty-four, after visiting Plymouth, we are heading into Cornwall.  So join us on our journey along the beautiful southwest coast…


Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Seagull, Starfish
A hungry seagull (aren’t they always?) at Polperro.



Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Sutton Harbour, Boats
Fishing boats being prepared for the day at Plymouth’s Sutton Harbour.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Hoe Promenade, Lighthouse, Royal Citadel,
Smeaton’s Tower and the Royal Citadel along Plymouth Hoe.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Hoe Promenade, Lighthouse, Smeaton's Tower
Smeaton’s Tower was originally built as the lighthouse at Eddystone Rock off Rame Head (we will visit later today).  It was then moved to Plymouth Hoe as a memorial to John Smeaton, its engineer.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, New Cooperage
We were really impressed by Plymouth’s Royal William Yard.  Originally built for the Royal Navy but now redeveloped with shops, restaurants, offices and a harbour.  Very nicely done.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, New Cooperage, Cow, Bull, Dog
Sculptures on the lawn in front of the New Cooperage.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, Ships Biscuit, Recipe, Monument
A recipe for Ships Biscuit curiously carved into a stone at the entrance to the Royal William Yard.


Tor Point

Coastal Road Trip, Ferry, Devonport - Tor Point, Plymouth, Cars
On the ferry heading from Devonport to Tor Point.  Travelling west to Cornwall on the ferry was free (you only pay sailing east).  We like a bargain! 😉


St John

Coastal Road Trip, St John's Lake, Ford, Sign, Road
More watery roads along the Cornish coast.
Coastal Road Trip, St John, View, Whitsand Bay, Field
Bright green fields above St John, looking down towards Whitsand Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, Welcome to Cornwall, Sign, Julian, Jarno
Although we entered Cornwall by ferry at Tor Point, there was also a passenger ferry landing at Cremyll.
Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, View to Royal William Yard, River Tamer
Looking back across the River Tamar to the Royal William Yard.
Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, Ferry Clock
The clock at Cremyll’s ferry landing.
Coastal Road Trip, Mount Edgcumbe, House, Park, Cremyll, River Tamar
The grand Mount Edgcumbe House overlooking Cremyll and the River Tamar.



Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Kingsand, Garrett Street, Narrow street, Van blocking road
Driving through Kingsand to Cawsand we got stuck behind a delivery truck.  With no way to pass, you just have to be patient.   We used the opportunity to nosey in the windows of the cute coastal cottages.
Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Beach, Bay, Boat
Cawsand Beach and Bay.  Just out of the picture there was a couple preparing for a morning swim around the bay.  Rather them than us.
Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Ferry Sign, Painted Tiles, Waiting Shelter
Painted tiles decorating the waiting shelter of the seasonal Cawsand Ferry.


Rame Head

Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, St Michael's Chapel, Jarno
The clouds started to clear as we arrived at Rame Head, so we had a little hike up to St Michael’s Chapel on the headland.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, View to Penlee, Heybrook Bay, The Great Mew Stone, Wembury Bay
There were amazing panoramic views along the coast, looking as far east as the Great Mew Stone in Wembury Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, National Coastwatch Institution, Heritage Coast
Looking back down the headland to the National Coastwatch Institution buliding by the car park.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Whitsand Bay, Fort
Whitsand Bay and Tregantle Fort above the cliffs to the northwest.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Horse
There were plenty of Dartmoor ponies precariously grazing around the headland cliffs.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Rocks, Waves
Choppy waters at the foot of the cliffs.


Whitsand Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Treninnow Cliff, Freathy
We then continued along the coastal road past Treninnow Cliff and Freathy.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Treninnow Cliff, Freathy
Rame Head silhouetted against the bright sunlight across Whitsand Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Tregantle Fort, Military Road, Freathy
The 1865 Tregantle Fort along Military Road.  Still open and working.  As we drove past we could see training in progress.



Coastal Road Trip, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Freathy
Looking down the wrinkly coast to Portwrinkle 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Portwrinkle, Beach, Whitsand Bay, Rame Head
Portwrinkle Beach with Rame Head still visible in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, Portwrinkle, Boats, Whitsand Bay, Rame Head
Small boats neatly stored on end by the water’s edge at Portwrinkle.



Coastal Road Trip, B3247, Road to Downderry
Driving through a patchwork of fields along the B3247 to Downderry.
Coastal Road Trip, Abandoned Farm, B3247, Road to Downderry
All along this coastal journey we’ve passed so many abandoned farm houses and barns… so they haven’t all been converted yet!



Coastal Road Trip, Seaton, Beach, Rame Head
Amazingly Rame Head and St Michael’s Chapel were still visible in the distance from Seaton Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Looe, West Looe, Seagull, East Looe River
We stopped at bustling East Looe for our first Cornish pasty.  As we looked across the East Looe River to West Looe, the seagulls were keeping a beady eye on us (or rather our pasties).
Coastal Road Trip, Looe, Looe Bay, Breakwater
Looking down the breakwater to the calm sea in Looe Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Looe, Looe Bay, Wooden Pegs, Breakwater
The breakwater walls were full of wooden wedges.  Very curious.  Maybe to help hold the wall together?
Coastal Road Trip, East Looe, Telescope, Beach
A telescope by the sandy East Looe Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Fishing Boats, Cottages
Our next stop was at Polperro.  The village was admittedly very quaint, but felt very surreal, like a ghost town.  Most of the shops and cafes were closed and there was hardly anyone around, unlike our previous stop at Looe.  Clearly a tourist village now, which is a real shame as out-of-season there seemed to be no locals to keep the place alive, so it somehow lacked soul.  We also had to pay the highest parking charge of our entire British coastal road trip here too!  Maybe that’s why it was so quiet.  We only stayed 45 minutes but had to pay £4.50 to park, which was the minimum charge (3 hours).
Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Seagull, Starfish
At least the seagulls seemed happy with the range of seafood.
Coastal Road Trip, Polperro, House on the props
The locally famous ‘House on the Props’, precariously hanging over the stream.



Coastal Road Trip, Lansallos, Lansallos, Church
Winding our way through more narrow country lanes we passed the small hamlet of Lansallos, and Saint Ildierna Church.



Coastal Road Trip, Lantivet, Narrow Lane, Cornwall
The lanes got narrower and narrower as we passed Lantivet.  Grass growing down the middle of the road is never a comforting sight.  Fortunately it was so quiet, so we didn’t have to make any difficult reversing-all-the-way-back-down-the-country-lane manoeuvers!



Coastal Road Trip, Lantic Bay, Cornwall, National Trust
Passing the secluded National Trust Lantic Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Polruan, View to Gribbin Head
Gribbin Head in the distance from the headland at Polruan.



Coastal Road Trip, Fowey, River Fowey, Parish Church, view from Polruan
From Polruan we looked across to Fowey and its Parish Church.
Coastal Road Trip, Bodinnich Ferry, Landing, Fowey, River Fowey
We then took the Bodinnich Ferry crossing over the River Fowey.  Taking the ferry saved us a 15 mile detour (and a precious 35 minutes of daylight) inland via Lostwithiel.
Coastal Road Trip, Bodinnich Landing, Ferry, River, Fowey, Crossing, Cornwall
Looking back to Bodinnich Landing as we crossed to Fowey.
Coastal Road Trip, Fowey, North Street, Narrow Street, Pinky Murphy's Cafe
We squeezed our way through Fowey’s narrow streets (fortunately one way).



Coastal Road Trip, Charlestown, Tall Ships, Square Sail, Harbour
Picturesque Charlestown, our final stop of the day before heading to St Austell for the night.
Coastal Road Trip, Charlestown, Tall Ships, Square Sail, Harbour
Square rigger tall ships reflecting in the small Georgian harbour.  The attractive harbour was originally built for coal imports and copper exports.  More recently the harbour has been used for period film and TV productions.


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