Month: August 2017

Day 26 – Invergordon to Elgin

A day full of contrasts as we drove south from Invergordon to Elgin, again a beautiful coastline, but dotted with off-shore oil & gas rigs.  We would have loved to have seen the coastline prior to the North Sea oil & gas finds, but appreciate it also greatly supports the locally economy (clearly evident).

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot, Fields, Birds
The local birdlife taking advantage of the freshly mown fields near Boath Doocot.

 

Invergordon

Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty Firth, Invergordon, Oil Rig
A typical sight along this coastline, oil and gas rigs, set against the rolling Scottish coastline and countryside.

 

Storehouse of Foulis

Coastal Road Trip, The Storehouse of Foulis, Cromarty Firth, Sundial
Synchronising watches old school style at the busy Storehouse of Foulis.  A local museum, shop and restaurant (busy for breakfast).

 

Cromarty

Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Lighthouse
The Cromarty Lighthouse, no longer working, and now used by the University of Aberdean as a field station for the University’s School of Biological Science.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Butterfly
And as we walked around the quaint little streets of Cromarty, we came across this bush full of life with tens of butterflies…
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Bee
…and busy bees.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Hugh Miller's Cottage, National Trust for Scotland
Hugh Miller’s Cottage, the birthplace of the Scott famous for his early geology, writing and social justice.  The cottage, museum and garden is maintained by the National Trust for Scotland.  It was very quiet, we seemed to be the only visitors this morning.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Street, Shop
Pottering around the Cromarty streets.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Oil Rigs
The view over Cromarty Firth, again such a contrast from the idyllic Cromarty.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, The Egg Box, Jarno
How cool is this?!  Never seen one of these before, an egg vending machine on road side.  Looked a bit like Febo – the Dutch will understand ;-).
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, The Egg Box, Vending Machine
Pop your money in, and pick-up some fresh eggs.

 

Chanonry Point

Coastal Road Trip, Chanonry Point
Heading over to the Moray Firth, and crossing yet another golf course, we arrived at Chanonry Point.  Seemed to be super busy for a lighthouse.  Then we realised that everyone was waiting to spot Bottlenose Dolphins,  and sure enough they turned-up, check-out the video at the bottom of the blog.  One of the best viewing places in the world!

 

Fortrose

Coastal Road Trip, Fortrose, Cathedral
The remains of Fortrose Cathedral, at its peak, twenty-one Canons and five vicars served here.
Coastal Road Trip, Fortrose, Cathedral
The chapter house at Fortrose Cathedral, the only section that was still in one piece.

 

Inverness

Coastal Road Trip, Inverness
Inverness was a bit of a surprise to us, on the map it looks so remote, but when we arrived we could have been in any decent sized bustling British market town.  Julian got a haircut, then we had a quick look at the castle.  We stocked up on socks (35 days on the road requires a lot of socks!) and sunglasses for Julian, replacing a pair lost somewhere in the highlands (yay – no more squinting in selfies).  We contemplated heading inland to go Loch Ness Monster spotting, but then decided to not get distracted and keep to the coastline…

 

Fort George

Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Bridge
A drawbridge at the huge Fort George.  Unfortunately we arrived just before closing, and as it is still a working army base they were strict on closing times, so we made do with our own tour around the perimeter grounds.
Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Walls
So many walls!
Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Chanonry Point, Lighthouse
Looking back over the Morray Firth to the crowds gathered at Chanory Point, on the lookout for Bottlenose Dolphins.

 

Boath Doocot

Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot
To be honest, not the most interesting thing, but along our route to Elgin so we made a quick stop.   A dove house atop a 12th century castle (now just a mound).
Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot, Fields, Birds
But great views over the fields south of Nairn.

 

Daily video

 

Day 25 – Lybster to Invergordon

Today we will drive 107 miles on our journey along the North Sea down to the Dornoch and Cromarty Firths.  Probably one of our shorter journeys, but still we have a lot to see, so let’s hit the road!

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Dalmation, Waiting, Sitting in Car
A patient chauffeur, waiting at Dunrobin Castle.

 

Lybster Harbour

Coastal Road Trip, Lybster, Harbour, Lighthouse
The sun rising in the sky over the cosy Lybster Harbour.

 

Dunbeath Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Latheron, Views South, Dunbeath Bay
Views south from Latheron along the rugged coast to Dunbeath Bay.

 

Laidhay Croft Museum

Coastal Road Trip, Laidhay croft museum, Jarno
We stopped by the Laidhay Croft Museum (keys from the coffee shop next door).  Absolutely packed with antiques and household goods from the crofting era.

 

Badbea

Coastal Road Trip, Badbea Clearance Village
All that remains from this tiny clearance village at Badbea.
Coastal Road Trip, Badbea Clearance Village, View to North Sea
The unspoiled views over the cliffs out to the North Sea.  Fine on a calm day like today, but must have been rough living at the top of these cliffs on a stormy day.

 

Helmsdale

Coastal Road Trip, Helmsdale, Church Tower
The church tower peeping through the tree tops in Helmsdale.

 

Brora

Coastal Road Trip, Brora, Golf Club, Golf Course
The Scottish coast was littered with Golf courses, all with stunning views.

 

Carn Liath

 

Coastal Road Trip, Carn Liath, Iron Age Broch, Settlement, A9
An amazingly well preserved Iron Age broch at Carn Liath (a round house), just a couple of minutes north of Dunrobin Castle.

 

Dunrobin Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle
The extravagant Dunrobin Castle, the family seat of the Earl of Sutherland and the Clan Sutherland.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Garden
The impressive French influenced gardens viewed from the castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Falconry Display
We stopped by a fun falconry display in the garden.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Dalmation, Waiting, Sitting in Car
Patiently waiting for Cruella De Vil in the castle car park.

 

Dornoch

Coastal Road Trip, Dornoch, Beach, 2 minute beach clean, Jarno
What a great idea at Dornoch Beach, encouraging visitors to a 2 minute beach litter clean.  Dornoch itself was a beautiful village.   Clearly the locals were looking after the area.

 

Tarbat Ness

Coastal Road Trip, Tarbat Ness
After all the yellow and white lighthouses we’d seen along our coastal road trip, it was refreshing to find a lovely red and white stripey one at Tarbat Ness! 😉

 

Baltintore

Coastal Road Trip, Balintore, Mermaid of the North, Seaboard Villages
Driving along the coast of the Seaboard villages we arrived at the Mermaid of the North atop ‘Clach Dubh’ (black rock) at Balintore.

 

Arabella

Coastal Road Trip, Arabella, Eastern Ross-shire, Wind Turbine, Sun, Clouds, Fields
On our way to Invergordon for the evening, hazy evening views across the countryside near Arabella.  Wind turbines became a really familiar sight whether on land or off shore along our journey.

 

Daily video

Day 24 – Bettyhill to Lybster

Great weather on day twenty-four as we set-off to the most northeasterly point of Britian.  Plenty of lighthouses and a few castles along the way.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother
Castle of Mey, previously the Queen Mother’s Scottish pad.

 

Armadale

Coastal Road Trip, Armadale, Small bay, Reismeave
After heading east out of Bettyhill we made our first stop of the day at Armadale, where we found this small bay hidden at the end of a farm track beyond Reismeave.  There was a winch and basket down to the bottom of the steep cliffs, we assumed for fishing.
Coastal Road Trip, Armadale, Drying fishing nets, Reismeave
At the top of the cliff there were these great masts, at first we thought it was some kind of radio aerial, then we realised they were for hanging and drying the fishing nets.

 

Strathy Point

Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Julian, Jarno
First of many lighthouses today at Strathy Point.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse
Actually, no longer a working lighthouse, but holiday lets.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Armadale Bay
The view back west along the coast towards Armadale Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Armadale Bay
Very choppy waters!
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Crashing Waves
Waves crashing against the rocks.

 

Strathy Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Beach
At Strathy Beach the waters were calm, quite a contrast from the rough waters around the corner at Strathy Point.

 

Portskerra

Coastal Road Trip, Portskerra, Bay
A small quiet cove at the far end of Portskerra.

 

Sandside Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Sandside, Bay, Beach, Dounreay
We were going to stop at Sandside Beach for a picnic, and wondered why no one else was around…
Coastal Road Trip, Sandside, Bay, Beach, Dounreay Nuclear Power Station Warning
… then we got some clues from this sign, we moved on.

 

St Mary’s Chapel

Coastal Road Trip, St Mary's Chapel Ruin, Crosskirk, Sheep, Bay
The 12th century St Mary’s Chapel on top of cliffs near Crosskirk.

 

Dunnet Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Bay, Castlehill, Flagstone, Trail, Windmill, Dunnet Head
The remains of a windmill at the Castlehill Flagstone Trail, with Dunnet Head in the background.

 

Dunnet Head

Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Head, Lighthouse, Most northerly point of mainland Britain
So we’ve visited the most westerly point of mainland Britain at Ardnamurchan Point, and now we’re at the most northerly point at Dunnet Head.  Plus another Lighthouse as a bonus!
Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Head, Scarfskerry
On the way back to the main road we caught these views looking east towards Scarfskerry.

 

Castle of Mey

Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother
A royal stop on our tour!  Castle of Mey, previously owned by The Queen Mother as one of her private residences.  Fascinating to look around.  Although grand, it also felt surprisingly homely with many grandma type knick-knacks here and there.  The guides were great, very enthusiastic and informative, clearly they were very proud to work there.
Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother, Gardens, Wheelbarrow
Lots of colour in the walled garden
Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother, Gardens, Flowers
Full of blooming flowers.

 

John o’Groats

Coastal Road Trip, John o'Groats, Julian, Jarno
Such tourists!  Yay, made it to John o’Groats in the northeastern corner of Scotland.  To Jarno’s delight, named after a Dutchman John de Groot.

 

Duncansby Head

Coastal Road Trip, Duncansby Head, Lighthouse, Muckle Skerry, Pentland Skerries High and Low Lighthouses
Just a few miles east of John o’Groats, we arrived at Duncansby Head Lighthouse.  In the distance you can see Muckle Skerry,  with the Pentland Skerries High and Low Lighthouses.  Three lighthouses in one picture, bargain!
Coastal Road Trip, Duncansby Head, Stacks of Duncansby
Then looking back south we could see over to the spectacular Stacks of Duncansby.

 

Ackergill Tower

Coastal Road Trip, Ackergill Tower, Sheep
We spotted Ackergill Tower whilst looking for Castle Sinclair Girnigoe.  Now a hotel, but looked very neat on the waters edge so stopped for a quick photo.

 

Noss Head

Coastal Road Trip, Noss Head, Lighthouse
Our final lighthouse of the day at Noss Head, just north of Wick.

 

Castle Sinclair Girnigoe

Coastal Road Trip, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe
Just to the west of Noss Head, we took a short hike down a track to the remains of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe.  Actually two castles (15th and 17th century) merged into one.  Perched precariously on rocks over Sinclair Bay, it was great that we could ramble around the remains, but it did somehow feel that it might collapse at any minute!
Coastal Road Trip, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, Sunset, Field
A final look back at Castle Sinclair Girnigoe as the sun started to set, before continuing on to Wick and then Lybster for the night.

 

Daily video

Day 23 – Durness to Bettyhill

We got up early today to catch the small passenger ferry across the Kyle of Durness, and then on to Cape Wrath via minibus.  However, due to poor weather, the ferry was not operating today.  So we’ll have to leave that adventure for another trip 😉   As we now had an extra half day on our hands, we decided to continue our journey to Bettyhill, arrive early and have a well deserved afternoon relaxing.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, The Moine, A’ Mhoine, Peat Bog, A838, Straight Empty Road
The empty A838 over the Moine.

 

Keoldale

Coastal Road Trip, Keoldale, Cape Wrath Ferry, Kyle of Durness
Well that’s where we were meant to be sailing on the ferry to the other side of the Kyle of Durness.  You can just about make out the ferry landing through the rain… if not, use your imagination.
Coastal Road Trip, Keoldale, Cape Wrath Ferry, Kyle of Durness, Julian, Jarno
Not sure why we are looking so happy, actually we were a bit gutted that we couldn’t visit Cape Wrath today.

 

Sango Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Durness, Sango Bay, Sango Sands
The beaches were again remarkable, fine sand, clear waters, just a shame it was a bit cold and wet for August!

 

Ceannabeinne Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Durness, Ceannabeinne Beach
And just a minute or two east of Sango Beach we arrived at Ceannabeinne Beach, equally beautiful (and rainy).

 

Loch Eriboll

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Eriboll, Telephone box, Jarno
Photo of Jarno filming a phone box… OK, so there wasn’t so much to see.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Eriboll, Ard Neakie
A great view looking down on Ard Neakie in Loch Eriboll, connected to the mainland by a sand spit.

 

The Moine

Coastal Road Trip, The Moine, A’ Mhoine, Peat Bog, A838, Straight Empty Road
As we drove across the Moine along the A838 the land became quite flat all of a sudden.  If you look carefully you can see some coloured bags to the left of the road.  It turns out this was a peat bog, and peat was being dug and bagged.

 

Talmine Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Talmine Bay, Melness Coast, Kyle of Tongue, Shipwreck
A shipwreck along the Melness Coast at Talmine Bay.  The Kyle of Tongue and the Rabbit Islands in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Talmine Bay, Melness Coast, Kyle of Tongue, Beach, Cow
And yet another beach cow… this is getting weird.  She didn’t look too impressed to see us.

 

Tongue

Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Tongue, Tongue. Castle Varrich
Across on the east side of the Kyle of Tongue we tried to find our way to Castle Varrich, but without a detailed map, and no mobile reception we struggled.  As we’d already had our fair share of castles over the last few weeks, we decided to move on.

 

Bettyhill

Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Bay, Beach
Yay!  Suns out again as we reached Bettyhill and Torrisdale Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Strathnaver Museum
Just east of Bettyhill we found the Strathnaver Museum, housed in the old parish church.  A great little place full of local artifacts and explanations about the clearances, with friendly helpful volunteers on hand.
Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Bay, Sunset
And the view from our Bettyhill hotel as the sun set over Torrisdale Bay.

 

Daily video

Day 22 – Ullapool to Durness

Today we are driving up to Durness, as far northwest as you can get by car on the British mainland, and we’re probably going to some of the most remote areas of our road trip so far.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
Heading past Locha Chairn Bhain on the scenic B869.

 

Knockan Crag

Coastal Road Trip, Knockan Crag, Globe, Joe Smith, Julian, Jarno
The intriguing Globe rock sculpture by Joe Smith at Knockan Crag.   Just down the path behind us there was also an excellent information hut explaining about the geology and history of the area.

 

Ardvreck Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Ardvrek Castle, Julian, Jarno
Jarno managing a straight selfie photo… finally 😉  Behind us the ruins Ardvrek Castle on Loch Assynt, originally the 15th century seat of the MacLeods of Assynt.

 

Lochinver

Coastal Road Trip, Lochinver, Truck, Painting, Dragon, Fishermen
How cool is this?!   Can’t imagine there are many fish delivery trucks painted like this.

 

Rhicarn

Coastal Road Trip, Rhicarn, Red House
A cute little red house near Rhicarn.

 

Clachtoll

Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach
One big surprise as we drove north were the beautiful clean white beaches, with crystal clear waters.  Clachtoll Beach was typical of the many beautiful beaches we saw.
Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach, Fin Whale, Jaw, Skull, ,Car Park, Jarno
In the beach car park the jaw and skull of a Fin Whale that had got stranded on Raffin Beach in 2007.

 

Stoer

Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
There maybe trouble ahead.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
I’m not sure who was more concerned, us or the cows, anyway the road ended up being (just) wide enough for all of us.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse
Stoer Lighthouse, and it was for sale!  Interesting…
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse, Views
The steep cliffs below Stoer Lighthouse.

 

Locha Chairn Bhain

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay
The craggy coast around Locha Chairn Bhain and Eddrachillis Bay was stunning.
Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
The snaking road continued alongside Locha Chairn Bhain then on to Unapool.

 

Unapool

Coastal Road Trip, Unapool, Bench
..and we did just that, on this bench by the road just above Unapool.

 

Kylesku

Coastal Road Trip, Kylesku, Loch Gleann Dubh
Bright green grass on these mini islands on Gleann Dubh near Kylesku.

 

Assynt

Coastal Road Trip, Assynt, Quinag, Sail Ghorm, Rocky Ridge
Magnificent views back over the Assynt region (Norse for rocky ridge) to Quinag and Sail Ghorm.

 

Cranstackie

Coastal Road Trip, Cranstackie, A838
The final stretch north to Durness as we passed Cranstackie.   Despite the A838 being an ‘A’ road it was single track most of the way, reminding us that we really were in a remote location.

 

Kyle of Durness

Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale
Looking back along the Kyle of Durness from Keoldale.
Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale, Cape Wrath, Ferry Crossing
At Keoldale we decided to stop and check out the ferry times to cross to Cape Wrath the following morning.  But the ferry didn’t run today due to the weather, so we’ll be back in the morning to check if it is crossing then…

 

Balnakeil Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Balnakeil Bay, Beach
We carried on to Balnakeil Bay, and wow what a beach.  Again we hadn’t imagined that the beaches would be so perfect or the water so clear, but it kind of makes sense seeing there are so few people to pollute them.

 

Smoo Cave

Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Bay
Then before stopping in Durness for the night we continued a little further east to Smoo Cave.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Tours
Inside Smoo Cave there was this little stand where tours could be arranged, but not today, again due to the weather.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Entrance
However, despite no one being around, you could still enter the walkway into the first chamber…
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Waterfall
… to view the Smoo Cave Waterfall.  A nice little surprise to finish the day.

 

Daily video

Day 21 – Gairloch to Ullapool

Day twenty-one will be full of lochs as we meander around Loch Gairloch, Loch Ewe, Gruinard Bay (not technically a loch, but almost), Little Loch Broom and finally Loch Broom.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Ullapool, Loch Broom, Blue sky, Reflection
Loch Broom.

 

Loch Gairloch

Coastal Road Trip, Gairloch, Loch Gairloch, Longa Island, Sunrise
We ended yesterday with a sunset view from our room.  Then this morning we woke to this beautiful view of Longa Island in Loch Gairloch.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Gairloch, Eilean Horrisdale, Reflections
Kicking the day off with a few more reflections along the road to Redpoint, first near Eilean Horrisdale.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Gairloch, Badachro, Boats, Reflections
Then these rather tired boats at Badachro, but still so picturesque.

 

Loch Tollaidh

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Tollaidh, Reflections
Heading over to Poolewe passing the small Loch Tollaidh.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Tollaidh, Blue boat
And another sinking boat…

 

Inverewe Garden

Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, House, National Trust for Scotland
Inverewe House in the Inverewe Garndens, now managed by the National Trust for Scotland (so we got our free entry).  Actually this was the second house built here, the original burnt down in a fire just over 100 years ago.
Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, Path, National Trust for Scotland
We arrived just as it opened, nice and quiet, great, until a coach load of tourists arrived, fortunately there were plenty of garden paths for all to get lost in.
Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, Purple flower, National Trust for Scotland
Flowers!  Time for some close-ups.

 

Loch Ewe

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Isle of Ewe, Cove, Anti-Aircraft Battery
Cove, at the the north western tip of the entrance to Loch Ewe, was littered with World War II Anti-Aircraft Battery.  Although unsafe to enter, it’s amazing that the concrete of these batteries has lasted so long.  Such a sharp contrast to their surroundings.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Cove, Beach
A secluded beach on a small peninsula along the road between Cove and Inverasdale.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Cove, Inverasdale, Poolewe, B8057, Road, Passing Point
Although many of the coastal roads in Scotland are single track (like the road between Poolewe and Cove), most have plenty of passing points, so we never had any problems.

 

Gruinard Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Gruinard Bay, Gruinard Island, Stream
A stream bubbling down to Gruinard Bay, with Gruinard Island in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Gruinard Bay, Jarno
Views over Gruinard Bay and Jarno.

 

Corrieshalloch Gorge

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, View to Loch Broom
Before heading down into Corrieshalloch Gorge, we stopped to take in the very green views down the valley to Loch Broom.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Bridge
Unfortunately the bridge over Corrieshalloch Gorge had been closed a few days earlier for safety reasons, so we couldn’t get to the main lookout point.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Julian, Jarno
Trying to look down into the gorge… but we couldn’t see much.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Mushrooms, Toadstools
Along the gorge path Mushrooms or maybe Toadstools?

 

Loch Broom

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Ullapool, Loch Broom, Blue sky, Reflection
We started the day with a bright blue sky, and ended the day with a bright blue sky!  This was our view across Loch Broom as we sat on the pebble beach at Ullapool eating our fish and chip dinner.

 

Daily video

Day 20 – Glenbrittle to Gairloch

A long drive today, about 150 miles,  so we made an early start… and a good job we did.  So much to see as we headed from the Isle of Skye back on the Scottish mainland.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Maree
Slioch reflecting in Loch Maree

 

Glenbrittle

Coastal Road Trip, Glenbrittle, Fairy Pools, Waterfall, Julian, Jarno
After first stopping at Glen Brittle Bay we headed back to the Fairy Pools, got on our waterproofs and headed out… we were going to get VERY wet in the driving rain.
Coastal Road Trip, Glenbrittle, Fairy Pools, Waterfall, Jarno
Stepping stones along the hike to the the Fairy Pools.
Coastal Road Trip, Glenbrittle, Fairy Pools, Waterfall
I’m not sure what was wetter, us or the rocks.
Coastal Road Trip, Glenbrittle, Fairy Pools, Waterfall
Despite the pouring rain the tiers of waterfall were still hypnotising to watch.

 

Loch Carron

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Carron, South Strome Picnic Site
Heading back on to the mainland we looped around Loch Carron on the A890, and managed a few pics at the South Strome picnic stop, before the clouds descended again.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Carron, A896, Waterfall
Another waterfall along the side of the road, just past Loch Carron heading to Kishorn.

 

Pass of the Cattle

Coastal Road Trip, Pass of the Cattle, Bealach na Bà, Bridge
The start of the small windy road over the Pass of the Cattle (AKA Bealach na Bà), more waterfalls!
Coastal Road Trip, Pass of the Cattle, Bealach na Bà, Bridge, Julian, Jarno
For the next hour our so the scenery was so dramatic, and the clouds somehow added to that.
Coastal Road Trip, Pass of the Cattle, Bealach na Bà, Bridge, East
Looking back down the east side of the Pass of the Cattle, you can see the road we had just come up, snaking its way down to Loch Kishorn in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, Pass of the Cattle, Bealach na Bà, Bridge, Top, AA, Viewpoint
Reached the viewpoint at the top.  Today the only view was the thick dark clouds.  Our fellow road trippers seemed to be mainly made up of motorbikers and people trying out their new sports cars, as we pootled along in our SUV.
Coastal Road Trip, Pass of the Cattle, Bealach na Bà, West
And heading back down the west side towards Applecross and the Inner Sound.

 

Callakille

Coastal Road Trip, Callakille, Lonbain
Driving north from Applecross, Lonbain and Callakille the coastline turned flatter, with gentler slopes down to the sound.
Coastal Road Trip, Rona Lighthouse
As we drove along we could glimpse the east side of Raasay and South Rona (plus its lighthouse), and in the far distance The Isle of Skye that we’d only left this morning.

 

Loch Torridon

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Torridon, Kenmore
And the scenery changed again as the road hugged the steep mountainside near Kenmore…
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Torridon, Kenmore
…and more of Loch Torridon came into view.  The roads were so so quiet too… lovely.

 

Ardheslaig

Coastal Road Trip, Ardheslaig Bay
The calm bay of Ardheslaig.

 

Shieldaig

Coastal Road Trip, Shieldaig
Shieldaig was a surprise, with some smart properties and even a posh coffee shop (perfect timing for an afternoon pick-me-up).

 

Beinne Eighe

Coastal Road Trip, Beinne Eighe, Glen Torridon
We then headed inland to Loch Maree, as there was no way (by car) to continue along the coast at this point.  Our journey inland took us straight through the heart of Glen Torridon and the magnificent Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve.  The area is know for wild cats and golden eagles, though we saw neither (maybe next time).

 

Loch Maree

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Maree
Time to reflect along Loch Maree.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Maree
Slioch towering over Loch Maree.  I read after that this is a very typical calendar shot, and there we were thinking we had that one in a million shot… 😉

 

Gairloch

Coastal Road Trip, Gairloch, Harbour
A tranquil evening at Gairloch Harbour.
Coastal Road Trip, Gairloch, Loch Gairloch, Sunset
We seem to get lucky with our hostal room views, this time sunset over Loch Gairloch.

 

Daily video

 

Day 19 – Isle of Skye (Day 2)

Heading northwest on our second full day on the Isle of Skye today.  Then looping up to the Waternish peninsula, across to Neist Point, before heading south to Glenbrittle and the Cuillin Hills.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Waternish
Views along Waternish Peninsula.

 

Treaslane

Coastal Road Trip, Treaslane, views to Uig Bay and Loch Snizort
Views from Treaslane over to Loch Snizort.  Love the tree shadow on the grass in the morning sun.

 

Edinbane

Coastal Road Trip, Edinbane, Loch Snizort
At the foot of the Waternish Peninsula with Loch Snizort in the distance.

 

Waternish

Coastal Road Trip, Waternish, Fairy Bridge
The Fairy Bridge entering the Waternish Peninsula.
Coastal Road Trip, Waternish
The odd burst of sunlight through the dark cloudy sky gave a moody feel to the landscape.

 

Dunvegan Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Dunvegan Castle, Julian, Jarno
Another day, another castle!  Since the 11th century Dunvegan Castle has been the seat of the chiefs of the Clan Macleod.  Unfortunately not a National Trust for Scotland or Historic Scotland property so we had to pay for a look around.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunvegan Castle
A somewhat brutal looking castle, but impressive none the less.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunvegan Castle, Loch Dunvegan
The view from the castle down Loch Dunvegan.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunvegan Castle, Garden, Flowers
In contrast to the rather grey castle the gardens were in full bloom…
Coastal Road Trip, Dunvegan Castle, Garden, Flowers
…full of colourful flowers.

 

Neist Point

Coastal Road Trip, Neist Point, Jarno
Thumbs up from Jarno at Neist Point.  Despite the pouring rain we put on our waterproofs and hiked down to the lighthouse.
Coastal Road Trip, Neist Point
Dramatic views north.
Coastal Road Trip, Neist Point Lighthouse, Julian, Jarno
Neist Point Lighthouse coming into view.
Coastal Road Trip, Neist Point Lighthouse
Looked good from a distance…
Coastal Road Trip, Neist Point Lighthouse
… but up close it was clearly in need of some love and care, and almost felt abandoned, despite it still being in use (operated remotely).

 

Bracadale

Coastal Road Trip, Bracadale, Loch Harport
Lush green coastal valleys surrounding Loch Harport on the way south to Glenbrittle.

 

Glenbrittle

Coastal Road Trip, Glenbrittle, The Cuillin Hills
Wow, this was the view from our hostal room window for the night.  No mobile signal or wifi … but who needs them when you have a view like that!

 

Daily video

Day 18 – Isle of Skye (Day 1)

Today we’re doing a loop clockwise around the northern tip of the Isle of Skye.  The weather will be on our side today too.  So excited to start exploring the island.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, The Storr, Highland Cow
A shaggy coated Isle of Skye Highland Cow.

 

Uig

Coastal Road Trip, Uig, Uig Bay, Loch Snizort
Views over Uig Bay and beyond to Loch Snizort.
Coastal Road Trip, Uig, Uig Tower, Captain Fraser's Folly
Captain Fraser’s Folly (AKA Uig Tower), built as a show of wealth.. not for defence.

 

Kilmuir

Coastal Road Trip, Kilmuir, Skye Museum of Island Life, Cart
Towards the most southern tip of the Isle of Skye, we stopped by the fascinating Skye Museum of Island Life.  A great introduction to croft living on the island, really well maintained with good explanations.
Coastal Road Trip, Kilmuir, Sheep
And the local sheep chilling in the sun (yes the sun came out!).

 

Duntulm

Coastal Road Trip, Duntulm, Duntulm Castle, Views south
Views south from Duntulm Castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Duntulm, Duntulm Castle, Julian, Jarno
Duntulm Castle perched on the cliffs above Loch Snizort, previously the seat of the chiefs of Clan MacDonald of Sleat.

 

Balmacquien

Coastal Road Trip, Balmacquien, Lane
Exploring off the beaten track down hidden coastal lanes.

 

Digg

Coastal Road Trip, Digg, Julian, Jarno
Stopping every minute to take yet another photo…

 

Staffin

Coastal Road Trip, Staffin, Sailing boat
As we drove along the coast to Staffin, an old sailing ship was following us along the same route out at sea.
Coastal Road Trip, Staffin Bay, Sound of Raasay
Staffin Bay, and the Sound of Raasay in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, Staffin Bay, Beach, Cow
Another beach cow!

 

Kilt Rock

Coastal Road Trip, Kilt Rock, Waterfall
Kilt Rock Waterfall gushing over the pillars of rock that form this coastline.  By this point we seemed to have hit a tourist hot spot, the busiest place on the island.  Tourists like waterfalls….
Coastal Road Trip, Kilt Rock, view south
And the view south over the cliffs that formed 55-61 million years ago!

 

The Storr

Coastal Road Trip, The Storr
The north east side of The Storr dramatically towering above a farm house.
Coastal Road Trip, The Storr, Loch Fada
Looking back to The Storr accross Loch Fada.
Coastal Road Trip, The Storr, Highland Cow
And a bit further south along the road some Highland Cows were kindly posing for photos.

 

Portree

Coastal Road Trip, Portree
Boats anchored in Portree Bay, with the Isle of Raasay in the background.  As the sun has been out for most of the day we treated ourselves to our second ice cream of the road trip 😉

 

Glamaig, Sligachan & The Cuillin Hills

Coastal Road Trip, Glamaig, Glen Varragill
What a perfect way to end our first full day on the Isle of Skye.  Stunning views towards Sligachan.
Coastal Road Trip, A87, The Cuillin Hills
The A87 with the The Cuillin Hills in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Sligachan Bridge, Glamaig
Sligachan Bridge and the cone like (from this angle) Glamaig.
Coastal Road Trip, Sligachan Bridge, The Cuillin Hills
And the final view of the day from Sligachan Bridge looking south to The Cuillin Hills.

 

Daily video

Day 17 – Strontian to Broadford

Exciting day today.  We’re on our way to the Isle of Skye, which we have wanted to visit for many years.  But we’ll start the day heading west, before continuing north.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Road to Aird of Sleat, Yellow boat
So tranquil, along the road to the Aird of Sleat.

 

Ardnamurchan

Coastal Road Trip, Ardnamurchan Sign
On our way to Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point on the British Mainland.
Coastal Road Trip, Road to Ardnamurchan, Julian, Jarno
Quick photo stop.
Coastal Road Trip, Ardnamurchan, Julian, Jarno
And we arrived!
Coastal Road Trip, Ardnamurchan, EV, Electric car charge point
…and despite being literally on the edge of the land we could have charged our electric car (handy, if we had one).
Coastal Road Trip, Ardnamurchan, Mingary Castle
Mingary Castle, we couldn’t visit as the ruin was under renovation.
Coastal Road Trip, Ardnamurchan Lighthouse
Yay!  Another lighthouse.  Of course we couldn’t visit this most westerly point without dropping by on Ardnamurchan Lighthouse.  The only Egyptian style lighthouse in the UK.   This one was open to the public and had a small museum, we had a little look around before realising that we were meant to pay…

 

Ardslignish

Coastal Road Trip, Ardslignish, Bay
Driving back east we came to this little bay near Ardslignish, and look.. cows sunbathing on the beach.
Coastal Road Trip, Ardslignish, Bay, Beach, Cows
Scottish cows do seem to enjoy the beach, well why not?
Coastal Road Trip, Ardslignish, Rolling roads
Beautiful views along the country lanes.

 

Ardtoe

Coastal Road Trip, Ardtoe, Beach writing
Doing a bit of marketing, however absolutely no one else around at the secluded beach near Ardtoe, so not sure who we were marketing too… 😉

 

Loch Ailort

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ailort
Views down Loch Ailort.  After a very quiet morning (which we loved), all of a sudden it started getting busier as we joined the rest of the road trippers heading to Mallaig to get the ferry over to the Isle of Skye.

 

Mallaig to Armadale

Coastal Road Trip, Mallaig to Armadale Ferry, Julian & Jarno
A bit of a chilly sail over to Armadale on the Isle of Skye.
Coastal Road Trip, Mallaig to Armadale Ferry, Scenery
But what dramatic scenery looking up the Sound of Sleat.

 

Aird of Sleat

Coastal Road Trip, Road to Aird of Sleat
Along the road to the Aird of Sleat, the most southerly point of the Isle of Skye.
Coastal Road Trip, Road to Aird of Sleat, Yellow boat
Loving the Isle of Skye already, and only been here 15 minutes!  Next stop Broadford for the first of 3 nights on the Isle of Skye.

 

Broadford

Coastal Road Trip, Broadford, Baked beans on toast, Julian, Jarno
In a hostal tonight, so we treated ourselves to baked beans on toast 😉

 

Daily video