On day forty-four, after visiting Plymouth, we are heading into Cornwall. So join us on our journey along the beautiful southwest coast…
Photo of the day
A hungry seagull (aren’t they always?) at Polperro.
Plymouth
Fishing boats being prepared for the day at Plymouth’s Sutton Harbour.Smeaton’s Tower and the Royal Citadel along Plymouth Hoe.Smeaton’s Tower was originally built as the lighthouse at Eddystone Rock off Rame Head (we will visit later today). It was then moved to Plymouth Hoe as a memorial to John Smeaton, its engineer.We were really impressed by Plymouth’s Royal William Yard. Originally built for the Royal Navy but now redeveloped with shops, restaurants, offices and a harbour. Very nicely done.Sculptures on the lawn in front of the New Cooperage.A recipe for Ships Biscuit curiously carved into a stone at the entrance to the Royal William Yard.
Tor Point
On the ferry heading from Devonport to Tor Point. Travelling west to Cornwall on the ferry was free (you only pay sailing east). We like a bargain! 😉
St John
More watery roads along the Cornish coast.Bright green fields above St John, looking down towards Whitsand Bay.
Cremyll
Although we entered Cornwall by ferry at Tor Point, there was also a passenger ferry landing at Cremyll.Looking back across the River Tamar to the Royal William Yard.The clock at Cremyll’s ferry landing.The grand Mount Edgcumbe House overlooking Cremyll and the River Tamar.
Cawsand
Driving through Kingsand to Cawsand we got stuck behind a delivery truck. With no way to pass, you just have to be patient. We used the opportunity to nosey in the windows of the cute coastal cottages.Cawsand Beach and Bay. Just out of the picture there was a couple preparing for a morning swim around the bay. Rather them than us.Painted tiles decorating the waiting shelter of the seasonal Cawsand Ferry.
Rame Head
The clouds started to clear as we arrived at Rame Head, so we had a little hike up to St Michael’s Chapel on the headland.There were amazing panoramic views along the coast, looking as far east as the Great Mew Stone in Wembury Bay.Looking back down the headland to the National Coastwatch Institution buliding by the car park.Whitsand Bay and Tregantle Fort above the cliffs to the northwest.There were plenty of Dartmoor ponies precariously grazing around the headland cliffs.Choppy waters at the foot of the cliffs.
Whitsand Bay
We then continued along the coastal road past Treninnow Cliff and Freathy.Rame Head silhouetted against the bright sunlight across Whitsand Bay.The 1865 Tregantle Fort along Military Road. Still open and working. As we drove past we could see training in progress.
Portwrinkle
Looking down the wrinkly coast to Portwrinkle 😉Portwrinkle Beach with Rame Head still visible in the distance.Small boats neatly stored on end by the water’s edge at Portwrinkle.
Downderry
Driving through a patchwork of fields along the B3247 to Downderry.All along this coastal journey we’ve passed so many abandoned farm houses and barns… so they haven’t all been converted yet!
Seaton
Amazingly Rame Head and St Michael’s Chapel were still visible in the distance from Seaton Beach.
Looe
We stopped at bustling East Looe for our first Cornish pasty. As we looked across the East Looe River to West Looe, the seagulls were keeping a beady eye on us (or rather our pasties).Looking down the breakwater to the calm sea in Looe Bay.The breakwater walls were full of wooden wedges. Very curious. Maybe to help hold the wall together?A telescope by the sandy East Looe Beach.
Polperro
Our next stop was at Polperro. The village was admittedly very quaint, but felt very surreal, like a ghost town. Most of the shops and cafes were closed and there was hardly anyone around, unlike our previous stop at Looe. Clearly a tourist village now, which is a real shame as out-of-season there seemed to be no locals to keep the place alive, so it somehow lacked soul. We also had to pay the highest parking charge of our entire British coastal road trip here too! Maybe that’s why it was so quiet. We only stayed 45 minutes but had to pay £4.50 to park, which was the minimum charge (3 hours).At least the seagulls seemed happy with the range of seafood.The locally famous ‘House on the Props’, precariously hanging over the stream.
Lansallos
Winding our way through more narrow country lanes we passed the small hamlet of Lansallos, and Saint Ildierna Church.
Lantivet
The lanes got narrower and narrower as we passed Lantivet. Grass growing down the middle of the road is never a comforting sight. Fortunately it was so quiet, so we didn’t have to make any difficult reversing-all-the-way-back-down-the-country-lane manoeuvers!
Lantic
Passing the secluded National Trust Lantic Bay.
Polruan
Gribbin Head in the distance from the headland at Polruan.
Fowey
From Polruan we looked across to Fowey and its Parish Church.We then took the Bodinnich Ferry crossing over the River Fowey. Taking the ferry saved us a 15 mile detour (and a precious 35 minutes of daylight) inland via Lostwithiel.Looking back to Bodinnich Landing as we crossed to Fowey.We squeezed our way through Fowey’s narrow streets (fortunately one way).
Charlestown
Picturesque Charlestown, our final stop of the day before heading to St Austell for the night.Square rigger tall ships reflecting in the small Georgian harbour. The attractive harbour was originally built for coal imports and copper exports. More recently the harbour has been used for period film and TV productions.
