On day forty-four, after visiting Plymouth, we are heading into Cornwall. So join us on our journey along the beautiful southwest coast…
Photo of the day
A hungry seagull (aren’t they always?) at Polperro.
Plymouth
Fishing boats being prepared for the day at Plymouth’s Sutton Harbour.Smeaton’s Tower and the Royal Citadel along Plymouth Hoe.Smeaton’s Tower was originally built as the lighthouse at Eddystone Rock off Rame Head (we will visit later today). It was then moved to Plymouth Hoe as a memorial to John Smeaton, its engineer.We were really impressed by Plymouth’s Royal William Yard. Originally built for the Royal Navy but now redeveloped with shops, restaurants, offices and a harbour. Very nicely done.Sculptures on the lawn in front of the New Cooperage.A recipe for Ships Biscuit curiously carved into a stone at the entrance to the Royal William Yard.
Tor Point
On the ferry heading from Devonport to Tor Point. Travelling west to Cornwall on the ferry was free (you only pay sailing east). We like a bargain! 😉
St John
More watery roads along the Cornish coast.Bright green fields above St John, looking down towards Whitsand Bay.
Cremyll
Although we entered Cornwall by ferry at Tor Point, there was also a passenger ferry landing at Cremyll.Looking back across the River Tamar to the Royal William Yard.The clock at Cremyll’s ferry landing.The grand Mount Edgcumbe House overlooking Cremyll and the River Tamar.
Cawsand
Driving through Kingsand to Cawsand we got stuck behind a delivery truck. With no way to pass, you just have to be patient. We used the opportunity to nosey in the windows of the cute coastal cottages.Cawsand Beach and Bay. Just out of the picture there was a couple preparing for a morning swim around the bay. Rather them than us.Painted tiles decorating the waiting shelter of the seasonal Cawsand Ferry.
Rame Head
The clouds started to clear as we arrived at Rame Head, so we had a little hike up to St Michael’s Chapel on the headland.There were amazing panoramic views along the coast, looking as far east as the Great Mew Stone in Wembury Bay.Looking back down the headland to the National Coastwatch Institution buliding by the car park.Whitsand Bay and Tregantle Fort above the cliffs to the northwest.There were plenty of Dartmoor ponies precariously grazing around the headland cliffs.Choppy waters at the foot of the cliffs.
Whitsand Bay
We then continued along the coastal road past Treninnow Cliff and Freathy.Rame Head silhouetted against the bright sunlight across Whitsand Bay.The 1865 Tregantle Fort along Military Road. Still open and working. As we drove past we could see training in progress.
Portwrinkle
Looking down the wrinkly coast to Portwrinkle 😉Portwrinkle Beach with Rame Head still visible in the distance.Small boats neatly stored on end by the water’s edge at Portwrinkle.
Downderry
Driving through a patchwork of fields along the B3247 to Downderry.All along this coastal journey we’ve passed so many abandoned farm houses and barns… so they haven’t all been converted yet!
Seaton
Amazingly Rame Head and St Michael’s Chapel were still visible in the distance from Seaton Beach.
Looe
We stopped at bustling East Looe for our first Cornish pasty. As we looked across the East Looe River to West Looe, the seagulls were keeping a beady eye on us (or rather our pasties).Looking down the breakwater to the calm sea in Looe Bay.The breakwater walls were full of wooden wedges. Very curious. Maybe to help hold the wall together?A telescope by the sandy East Looe Beach.
Polperro
Our next stop was at Polperro. The village was admittedly very quaint, but felt very surreal, like a ghost town. Most of the shops and cafes were closed and there was hardly anyone around, unlike our previous stop at Looe. Clearly a tourist village now, which is a real shame as out-of-season there seemed to be no locals to keep the place alive, so it somehow lacked soul. We also had to pay the highest parking charge of our entire British coastal road trip here too! Maybe that’s why it was so quiet. We only stayed 45 minutes but had to pay £4.50 to park, which was the minimum charge (3 hours).At least the seagulls seemed happy with the range of seafood.The locally famous ‘House on the Props’, precariously hanging over the stream.
Lansallos
Winding our way through more narrow country lanes we passed the small hamlet of Lansallos, and Saint Ildierna Church.
Lantivet
The lanes got narrower and narrower as we passed Lantivet. Grass growing down the middle of the road is never a comforting sight. Fortunately it was so quiet, so we didn’t have to make any difficult reversing-all-the-way-back-down-the-country-lane manoeuvers!
Lantic
Passing the secluded National Trust Lantic Bay.
Polruan
Gribbin Head in the distance from the headland at Polruan.
Fowey
From Polruan we looked across to Fowey and its Parish Church.We then took the Bodinnich Ferry crossing over the River Fowey. Taking the ferry saved us a 15 mile detour (and a precious 35 minutes of daylight) inland via Lostwithiel.Looking back to Bodinnich Landing as we crossed to Fowey.We squeezed our way through Fowey’s narrow streets (fortunately one way).
Charlestown
Picturesque Charlestown, our final stop of the day before heading to St Austell for the night.Square rigger tall ships reflecting in the small Georgian harbour. The attractive harbour was originally built for coal imports and copper exports. More recently the harbour has been used for period film and TV productions.
Wow! The weather today was stunning for late October. The freshness of the bright blue sky over Devon reminded us of the time we spent living in California, though Devon was a little colder 😉
Photo of the day
Wembury Beach
Paignton
Another early start as we watched the sunrise over Paignton Pier.Taking a look under the 238 metre long pier.
Broadsands
Julian had many fond memories of Broadsands Beach, having spent many summers here as a kid.
Brixham
As well as many working fishing boats, there was also an interesting replica of Sir Francis Drake’s The Golden Hind ship sitting in the harbour.Brixham Marina. William Prince of Orange and his Dutch army landed at Brixham in 1688 (the marina was built much later!). Many locals still have Dutch surnames.The lighthouse at the end of Brixham’s long breakwater, with Paignton Pier in the background. The breakwater was great for a brisk walk and for its panoramic views across Torbay.
Berry Head
Driving along typically narrow Devon lanes, we arrived at Berry Head. As it was a clear day, we had lovely views west past Sharkham Point and St Mary’s Bay.The lighthouse at Berry Head, the shortest lighthouse in Great Britain (6 metres), but also one of the highest above sea level (58 metres).Jarno checking directions on Berry Head’s Compass.
Dartmouth
A short drive southwest took us to the River Dart, where we crossed from Kingswear to Dartmouth on the Higher Ferry. Great timing too, as the ferry was just boarding as we arrived, so we drove straight on.Looking up the River Dart on the short ferry crossing.The Britannia Royal Naval College sitting above Dartmouth.Plenty of yachts moored in the Dart Marina.Driving along more narrow lanes took us to Dartmouth Castle, with stunning views across the Dart to some fabulous looking houses over at Kingswear.The 15th century Dartmouth Castle next to Saint Petrox Church, overlooking the mouth of the River Dart.Looking down the steep cliffs to Castle Cove.
Blackpool Sands
A clear view across Start Bay past Blackpool Sands and Slapton Sands. We could hardly believe this was Devon at the end of October.Waves crashing on Blackpool Sands.Looks can be deceptive, it was actually pretty chilly whilst taking a break at The Venus Cafe.Looking back down on Blackpool Sands as we continued our coastal drive.
Strete
Driving to Strete we passed sheep enjoying the autumn sunshine in the fields above Forest Cove.
Slapton Sands
Strete Gate Beach at the north end of Slapton Sands, which is technically a bar (a coastal one, not one you go for a drink in).At the southern end of Slapton Sands we reached Torcross, and the Sherman tank at the Exercise Tiger Memorial.
Start Point
The views from Start Point across Freshwater Bay and Start Bay were breathtaking. We could see all the way back along the coast we had just driven along in the morning.Hallsands perched on cliffs next to Start Point.Walking along the South West Coastal Path to Start Point Lighthouse.The Grade II listed Start Point Lighthouse.As we walked back along Start Point’s ridge, we had super views looking west along the South West Coast Path towards Mattiscombe.A lone paraglider above the Start Point cliffs.More narrow coastal lanes as we drove to and from Start Point. There were not many passing places, but fortunately it was very quiet this Monday morning. However, we then attempted to drive to East Prawle, but the lanes got so narrow that both sides of the car were being scratched by the hedges! At the first opportunity we then tried to make it back to slightly larger lanes. One recommendation, best to come here in a small car, a car you don’t care about or a tractor.
West Charleton
A typical Devon village road winding its way between cottages at West Charleton.
Kingsbridge
The low autumn sun reflecting on Bowcombe Creek near Kingsbridge.
Malborough
Views over Lincombe to the Kingsbridge Estuary, along the road to Malborough.
Salcombe
Looking across Batson Creek, from Salcombe to East Portlemouth.Be careful where you drive! Union street ended abruptly at the lifeboat station. Salcombe really was a maze of tiny roads. Fortunately, as it was a quiet day out-of-season, we were really lucky to park on a street right down by the harbour.The local pub squeezed into the waters edge by the ferry landing.We wound our way up through more tiny lanes to Overbecks, a National Trust property overlooking Salcombe. Unfortunately it had closed for the season, so we peeped over the garden walls to take in the the views across Salcombe Harbour and the Kingsbridge Estuary.
Hope Cove
The Outer Hope Beach at Hope Cope, and our first glimpse across Bigbury Bay to Burgh Island.Lobster pots sitting along the sandy Inner Hope Harbour.Boats tied up on the Inner Hope Beach.
Aveton Gifford
On our way to Bigbury-on-Sea, we somehow ended up on a shortcut alongside the River Avon at Bridge End, near Aveton Gifford.The aptly named Tidal Road had little protection from the River Avon. Anyway, we continued on our way and were fortunately fine.
Burgh Island
We arrived at Burgh Island just as the sun started to go down.The Island is most famous for its Art Deco Burgh Island Hotel. Agatha Christie wrote a few of her books whilst staying here. Julian was also lucky enough to stay here several years ago (in the Agatha Christie room), and loved it!
Newton Ferres
Newton Creek surrounded by Noss Mayo on the opposite side, and Newton Ferrers on our side.
Wembury
Great, we made it to Wembury Beach, our final stop just before the daylight disappeared. There was a little stream running down the beach, which made a great end-shot for the day. That’s all for day forty-three. On Day forty-four we will continue our coastal road trip from Plymouth.
