Day 45 – St Austell to Helston

Today we will be driving down to the most southerly point of mainland Britain, having already visited the most westerly, northerly and easterly points earlier on this trip!  The unpredictable British weather has generally been kind to us along our journey, but today will be very wet…


Photo of the day

Coatal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Yellow Fishing Boat, FH26
Fishing boats at Cadgwith Cove.



Coastal Road Trip, Pentewan, St Austell River
After leaving St Austell we followed the St Austell River to Pentewan.  We were going to get soaking wet if we had walked to the beach, so made do with visiting the village set-back from the seafront.
Coastal Road Trip, B3273, Pentewan to Mevagissey, Rainy, Green fields, Valley, SW Coastal Path
Leaving Pentewan heading to Mevagissey with views over the rolling fields to the coast.



CCoastal Road Trip, Mevagissey, Cornwall, Harbour, Red Fishing Boat, Resolute
Mevagissey was still slowly waking up on this rainy Saturday morning.  Everyone else had clearly decided it was better to stay in bed.
Coastal Road Trip, Mevagissey, Cornwall, Harbour, View, Raining
Mevagissey still has a working fishing harbour, but it was very quiet this morning.


Gorran Haven

Coastal Road Trip, Gorran Haven, Church Street, Narrow Street
We had just driven down the crazy narrow Church Street into Gorran Haven.
Coastal Road Trip, Gorran Haven, Beach, Stream, Cornwall
A stream tumbling down Gorran Haven Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Porthluney, Caerhays Beach, Estate, Castle
A few paddle-boarders were testing the waves at Porthluney Beach, at the foot of the Caerhays Estate.



Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, Cottages, Cornwall
Portloe was a really cosy coastal village.  It had a lovely genuine feel to it.
Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, Harbour, Julian, Jarno
The small boat slipway nestled into the valley.
Coastal Road Trip, Portloe, 3 Maidens Boat, Lugger, Harbour, Cornwall
A rather rocky looking entrance to the tiny harbour.



Coastal Road Trip, Pendower Beach, Gerrans Bay, Rain, National Trust, The Roseland Heritage Coast
As we arrived at the National Trust Pendower Beach the heavens opened and it absolutely poured with rain.  After a while we made a quick dash for the beach with our umbrellas, and through the rain manged to catch views across Gerrans Bay.


St Mawes

Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Tredenham Road, Roseland Peninsula
We then continued our journey down the Roseland Peninsula to St Mawes.
Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Castle, English Heritage, Roseland Peninsula
We had visited St Mawes and the castle last year with Julian’s parents, so we just made a brief stop in the small town.  However, we still managed enough time to squeeze in a morning coffee and sausage roll from the famous local Curtis bakery.
Coastal Road Trip, St Mawes, Harbour, Ferry
The passenger ferry to Falmouth in St Mawes Harbour.


St Just in Roseland

Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Lych Gate
St Just’s Church tower peeping above the trees through the church lych gate.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church
The 13th century St Just’s Church in a charming wooded valley overlooking Carrick Roads.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Messages on Tree, Holy Well
Exploring the church grounds.
Coastal Road Trip, St Just in Roseland, St Just's Church, Nave, Interior, Altar
The church was quite compact inside, it felt almost chapel like.


King Harry Ferry

Coastal Road Trip, King Harry Ferry, Philleigh to Feock, River Fal
Avoiding a long trip north via Truro, we cut across the River Fal from Philleigh to Feock on the King Harry Ferry.
Coastal Road Trip, King Harry Ferry, Philleigh to Feock, River Fal, Captain, Dummy
The ferry captain kept watch as we crossed the river.
Coastal Road Trip, River Fal, Nederland Reefer, Ship
A surprisingly large Dutch ship was anchored in the River Fal.



Coastal Road Trip, Trelissick, National Trust, Julian, Jarno, Channals Creek, River Fal
Exploring the National Trust Trelissick grounds, looking down to Channals Creek and the River Fal.  Still raining!



Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, The Wheel House, Carrick Roads
We made our next stop at Falmouth, which was much larger and busier than we had been expecting.  It actually made quite a nice change from the quiet fishing villages.  We discovered the port is the busiest in Cornwall.
Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, Beach Huts, Discovery Quay
Yay!  Finally we found some ‘beach huts’ in Cornwall at Falmouth’s Discovery Quay.
Coastal Road Trip, Falmouth, Falmouth Custom House Quay
Falmouth’s Custom House Quay, with Flushing and Carrick Roads through the drizzle in the background.



Coastal Road Trip, Pendennis Head, St Anthony Lighthouse
From Pendennis Head we could just about see across to St Anthony Lighthouse south of St Mawes.


Gyllyngvase Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth Bay
Gyllyngvase Beach just south of Falmouth, overlooking Falmouth Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Gweek, Helford River, Boats
As we continued our journey south to the Lizard peninsula we crossed over the Helford River at Gweek.



Coastal Road Trip, Goonhilly Earth Station, Satellite Dish, Goonhilly Downs National Nature Reserve
The satellite dishes at Goonhilly Earth Station suddenly appeared on the horizon, so we made a quick stop at the nearby Goonhilly Downs National Nature Reserve to take a closer look.



Coastal Road Trip, Coverack, Beach, Cove, Lowland Point
Coverack Beach and Cove with views over to Lowland Point.  The small village was still recovering from a flash flood that had damaged property and the sea wall earlier in the year.



Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Yellow Fishing Boat, FH26
A sunshine yellow fishing boat adding a bit of colour to this grey day.
Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Crab, Shack, Crows Nest
Cadgwith Cove felt like another cozy and authentic Cornish village.
Coastal Road Trip, Cadgwith, Cove, Narrow Street, New Road, Inn, The Old Cellars
Cottages nestled around the narrow streets.


The Lizard

Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Sign Post, Heritage Centre
Finally we made it to The Lizard.
Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Lighthouse
The Lizard Lighthouse, dating back to 1752, sitting above the lighthouse keeper cottages.
Coatal Road Trip, Lizard Point, National Trust, Most Southerly Point of Mainland Britain
Lizard Point, the most southerly point of mainland Britain.
Coastal Road Trip, The Lizard, Julian, Jarno
On day 17 of our coastal road trip we visited the most westerly point of mainland Britain at Ardnamurchan.  On day 24 we visited the most northerly point at Dunnet Head.  On day 35 we reached the most easterly point at Ness Point.  Then today (day 45) we finally reached the most southerly point at Lizard Point!
Coastal Road Trip, Lizard Point, Most Southerly Point of Mainland Britain
And it was so quiet, just us and another couple.  Hint, to miss the crowds visit on a cold rainy late Saturday afternoon in November!  So that was our final stop of the day before we drove back up the western side of the Lizard peninsula to Helston for the night.


Daily video

Day 44 – Plymouth to St Austell

On day forty-four, after visiting Plymouth, we are heading into Cornwall.  So join us on our journey along the beautiful southwest coast…


Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Seagull, Starfish
A hungry seagull (aren’t they always?) at Polperro.



Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Sutton Harbour, Boats
Fishing boats being prepared for the day at Plymouth’s Sutton Harbour.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Hoe Promenade, Lighthouse, Royal Citadel,
Smeaton’s Tower and the Royal Citadel along Plymouth Hoe.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Hoe Promenade, Lighthouse, Smeaton's Tower
Smeaton’s Tower was originally built as the lighthouse at Eddystone Rock off Rame Head (we will visit later today).  It was then moved to Plymouth Hoe as a memorial to John Smeaton, its engineer.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, New Cooperage
We were really impressed by Plymouth’s Royal William Yard.  Originally built for the Royal Navy but now redeveloped with shops, restaurants, offices and a harbour.  Very nicely done.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, New Cooperage, Cow, Bull, Dog
Sculptures on the lawn in front of the New Cooperage.
Coastal Road Trip, Plymouth, Royal William Yard, Ships Biscuit, Recipe, Monument
A recipe for Ships Biscuit curiously carved into a stone at the entrance to the Royal William Yard.


Tor Point

Coastal Road Trip, Ferry, Devonport - Tor Point, Plymouth, Cars
On the ferry heading from Devonport to Tor Point.  Travelling west to Cornwall on the ferry was free (you only pay sailing east).  We like a bargain! 😉


St John

Coastal Road Trip, St John's Lake, Ford, Sign, Road
More watery roads along the Cornish coast.
Coastal Road Trip, St John, View, Whitsand Bay, Field
Bright green fields above St John, looking down towards Whitsand Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, Welcome to Cornwall, Sign, Julian, Jarno
Although we entered Cornwall by ferry at Tor Point, there was also a passenger ferry landing at Cremyll.
Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, View to Royal William Yard, River Tamer
Looking back across the River Tamar to the Royal William Yard.
Coastal Road Trip, Cremyll, Ferry Clock
The clock at Cremyll’s ferry landing.
Coastal Road Trip, Mount Edgcumbe, House, Park, Cremyll, River Tamar
The grand Mount Edgcumbe House overlooking Cremyll and the River Tamar.



Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Kingsand, Garrett Street, Narrow street, Van blocking road
Driving through Kingsand to Cawsand we got stuck behind a delivery truck.  With no way to pass, you just have to be patient.   We used the opportunity to nosey in the windows of the cute coastal cottages.
Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Beach, Bay, Boat
Cawsand Beach and Bay.  Just out of the picture there was a couple preparing for a morning swim around the bay.  Rather them than us.
Coastal Road Trip, Cawsand, Ferry Sign, Painted Tiles, Waiting Shelter
Painted tiles decorating the waiting shelter of the seasonal Cawsand Ferry.


Rame Head

Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, St Michael's Chapel, Jarno
The clouds started to clear as we arrived at Rame Head, so we had a little hike up to St Michael’s Chapel on the headland.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, View to Penlee, Heybrook Bay, The Great Mew Stone, Wembury Bay
There were amazing panoramic views along the coast, looking as far east as the Great Mew Stone in Wembury Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, National Coastwatch Institution, Heritage Coast
Looking back down the headland to the National Coastwatch Institution buliding by the car park.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Whitsand Bay, Fort
Whitsand Bay and Tregantle Fort above the cliffs to the northwest.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Horse
There were plenty of Dartmoor ponies precariously grazing around the headland cliffs.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Rocks, Waves
Choppy waters at the foot of the cliffs.


Whitsand Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Treninnow Cliff, Freathy
We then continued along the coastal road past Treninnow Cliff and Freathy.
Coastal Road Trip, Rame Head, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Treninnow Cliff, Freathy
Rame Head silhouetted against the bright sunlight across Whitsand Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Tregantle Fort, Military Road, Freathy
The 1865 Tregantle Fort along Military Road.  Still open and working.  As we drove past we could see training in progress.



Coastal Road Trip, Whitsand Bay, Military Road, Freathy
Looking down the wrinkly coast to Portwrinkle 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Portwrinkle, Beach, Whitsand Bay, Rame Head
Portwrinkle Beach with Rame Head still visible in the distance.
Coastal Road Trip, Portwrinkle, Boats, Whitsand Bay, Rame Head
Small boats neatly stored on end by the water’s edge at Portwrinkle.



Coastal Road Trip, B3247, Road to Downderry
Driving through a patchwork of fields along the B3247 to Downderry.
Coastal Road Trip, Abandoned Farm, B3247, Road to Downderry
All along this coastal journey we’ve passed so many abandoned farm houses and barns… so they haven’t all been converted yet!



Coastal Road Trip, Seaton, Beach, Rame Head
Amazingly Rame Head and St Michael’s Chapel were still visible in the distance from Seaton Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Looe, West Looe, Seagull, East Looe River
We stopped at bustling East Looe for our first Cornish pasty.  As we looked across the East Looe River to West Looe, the seagulls were keeping a beady eye on us (or rather our pasties).
Coastal Road Trip, Looe, Looe Bay, Breakwater
Looking down the breakwater to the calm sea in Looe Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Looe, Looe Bay, Wooden Pegs, Breakwater
The breakwater walls were full of wooden wedges.  Very curious.  Maybe to help hold the wall together?
Coastal Road Trip, East Looe, Telescope, Beach
A telescope by the sandy East Looe Beach.



Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Fishing Boats, Cottages
Our next stop was at Polperro.  The village was admittedly very quaint, but felt very surreal, like a ghost town.  Most of the shops and cafes were closed and there was hardly anyone around, unlike our previous stop at Looe.  Clearly a tourist village now, which is a real shame as out-of-season there seemed to be no locals to keep the place alive, so it somehow lacked soul.  We also had to pay the highest parking charge of our entire British coastal road trip here too!  Maybe that’s why it was so quiet.  We only stayed 45 minutes but had to pay £4.50 to park, which was the minimum charge (3 hours).
Coastal Road Trip, Polperro Harbour, Seagull, Starfish
At least the seagulls seemed happy with the range of seafood.
Coastal Road Trip, Polperro, House on the props
The locally famous ‘House on the Props’, precariously hanging over the stream.



Coastal Road Trip, Lansallos, Lansallos, Church
Winding our way through more narrow country lanes we passed the small hamlet of Lansallos, and Saint Ildierna Church.



Coastal Road Trip, Lantivet, Narrow Lane, Cornwall
The lanes got narrower and narrower as we passed Lantivet.  Grass growing down the middle of the road is never a comforting sight.  Fortunately it was so quiet, so we didn’t have to make any difficult reversing-all-the-way-back-down-the-country-lane manoeuvers!



Coastal Road Trip, Lantic Bay, Cornwall, National Trust
Passing the secluded National Trust Lantic Bay.



Coastal Road Trip, Polruan, View to Gribbin Head
Gribbin Head in the distance from the headland at Polruan.



Coastal Road Trip, Fowey, River Fowey, Parish Church, view from Polruan
From Polruan we looked across to Fowey and its Parish Church.
Coastal Road Trip, Bodinnich Ferry, Landing, Fowey, River Fowey
We then took the Bodinnich Ferry crossing over the River Fowey.  Taking the ferry saved us a 15 mile detour (and a precious 35 minutes of daylight) inland via Lostwithiel.
Coastal Road Trip, Bodinnich Landing, Ferry, River, Fowey, Crossing, Cornwall
Looking back to Bodinnich Landing as we crossed to Fowey.
Coastal Road Trip, Fowey, North Street, Narrow Street, Pinky Murphy's Cafe
We squeezed our way through Fowey’s narrow streets (fortunately one way).



Coastal Road Trip, Charlestown, Tall Ships, Square Sail, Harbour
Picturesque Charlestown, our final stop of the day before heading to St Austell for the night.
Coastal Road Trip, Charlestown, Tall Ships, Square Sail, Harbour
Square rigger tall ships reflecting in the small Georgian harbour.  The attractive harbour was originally built for coal imports and copper exports.  More recently the harbour has been used for period film and TV productions.


Daily video