Day 22 – Ullapool to Durness

Today we are driving up to Durness, as far northwest as you can get by car on the British mainland, and we’re probably going to some of the most remote areas of our road trip so far.


Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
Heading past Locha Chairn Bhain on the scenic B869.


Knockan Crag

Coastal Road Trip, Knockan Crag, Globe, Joe Smith, Julian, Jarno
The intriguing Globe rock sculpture by Joe Smith at Knockan Crag.   Just down the path behind us there was also an excellent information hut explaining about the geology and history of the area.


Ardvreck Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Ardvrek Castle, Julian, Jarno
Jarno managing a straight selfie photo… finally ūüėČ ¬†Behind us the ruins Ardvrek Castle on Loch Assynt, originally the 15th century seat of the MacLeods of Assynt.



Coastal Road Trip, Lochinver, Truck, Painting, Dragon, Fishermen
How cool is this?! ¬† Can’t imagine there are many fish delivery trucks painted like this.



Coastal Road Trip, Rhicarn, Red House
A cute little red house near Rhicarn.



Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach
One big surprise as we drove north were the beautiful clean white beaches, with crystal clear waters.  Clachtoll Beach was typical of the many beautiful beaches we saw.
Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach, Fin Whale, Jaw, Skull, ,Car Park, Jarno
In the beach car park the jaw and skull of a Fin Whale that had got stranded on Raffin Beach in 2007.



Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
There maybe trouble ahead.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
I’m not sure who was more concerned, us or the cows, anyway the road ended up being (just) wide enough for all of us.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse
Stoer Lighthouse, and it was for sale! ¬†Interesting…
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse, Views
The steep cliffs below Stoer Lighthouse.


Locha Chairn Bhain

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay
The craggy coast around Locha Chairn Bhain and Eddrachillis Bay was stunning.
Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
The snaking road continued alongside Locha Chairn Bhain then on to Unapool.



Coastal Road Trip, Unapool, Bench
..and we did just that, on this bench by the road just above Unapool.



Coastal Road Trip, Kylesku, Loch Gleann Dubh
Bright green grass on these mini islands on Gleann Dubh near Kylesku.



Coastal Road Trip, Assynt, Quinag, Sail Ghorm, Rocky Ridge
Magnificent views back over the Assynt region (Norse for rocky ridge) to Quinag and Sail Ghorm.



Coastal Road Trip, Cranstackie, A838
The final stretch north to Durness as we passed Cranstackie. ¬† Despite the A838 being an ‘A’ road it was single track most of the way, reminding us that we really were in a remote location.


Kyle of Durness

Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale
Looking back along the Kyle of Durness from Keoldale.
Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale, Cape Wrath, Ferry Crossing
At Keoldale we decided to stop and check out the ferry times to cross to Cape Wrath the following morning. ¬†But the ferry didn’t run today due to the weather, so we’ll be back in the morning to check if it is crossing then…


Balnakeil Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Balnakeil Bay, Beach
We carried on to Balnakeil Bay, and wow what a beach. ¬†Again we hadn’t imagined that the beaches would be so perfect or the water so clear, but it kind of makes sense seeing there are so few people to pollute them.


Smoo Cave

Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Bay
Then before stopping in Durness for the night we continued a little further east to Smoo Cave.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Tours
Inside Smoo Cave there was this little stand where tours could be arranged, but not today, again due to the weather.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Entrance
However, despite no one being around, you could still enter the walkway into the first chamber…
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Waterfall
… to view the Smoo Cave Waterfall. ¬†A nice little surprise to finish the day.


Daily video