Tag: Scotland

Day 30 – Berwick-upon-Tweed to Newcastle

We are starting today by heading a few miles north back in to Scotland (they can’t keep us away).  We will then spend most of the day continuing our drive back in England, along the Northumberland coast before ending the day in Newcastle.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Leaders
The Tour of Britain Cycle Race arriving in Bamburgh.

 

St Abbs

Coastal Road Trip, St Abbs, Harbour, Blue Hut, Cliff House
Starting our day just north of the Scottish border at the quiet fishing village of St Abbs.
Coastal Road Trip, St Abbs, Harbour
Rocky views past St Abbs Harbour.

 

English & Scottish border

Coastal Road Trip, Coastal Road Trip, Scotland Border, England Border, Union Jack, Flags
Crossing the border back into England.

 

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Coastal Road Trip, Berwick upon Tweed, Bridge, Royal Border Bridge, Railway
The Royal Border Bridge spanning the River Tweed.  The railway viaduct was opened by Queen Victoria in 1850.
Coastal Road Trip, Berwick upon Tweed, Parking Disc, Northumberland
I remember these parking discs as a kid, and didn’t realise they were still in use.
Coastal Road Trip, Berwick upon Tweed, Berwick Lighthouse
The simple but neat lighthouse at the end of the Berwick-upon-Tweed breakwater.

 

Lindisfarne

Coastal Road Trip, Lindisfarne, The Holy Island, Causeway, Danger Sign, Julian, Jarno
Crossing over the causeway to Lindisfarne (AKA The Holy Island).
Coastal Road Trip, Lindisfarne, The Holy Island, Causeway, Warning, Tide Tables
We better be quick, in fifteen minutes the tide is coming in, and we won’t be able to get back to the mainland until the evening.
Coastal Road Trip, Lindisfarne, The Holy Island, Causeway, Road, Hut, Sea
In case you get stranded as the tide returns, there’s a handy refuge hut to escape the rising tides.  Your car might get a bit wet though.

 

Tour of Britain Cycle Race (coming into Bamburgh)

Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Sign, Delays Expected
As we drove along the country lanes towards Bamburgh we suddenly found ourselves on the Tour of Britain Cyle Race route.  A complete surprise.  Perfect timing.
Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Police, Race marshals
So we parked up on the verge, a few minutes later the police and race marshals arrived…
Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Flying TV, Helicopter, Eye in the sky, Camera, TV Station
…quickly followed by the ‘Eye in the Sky”…
Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Leaders
… then the race leaders came charging through….
Coastal Road Trip, Tour of Britain Cycle Race, Bamburgh, Main group
…followed by the main group.  Ten minutes later we were back on the road again after this nice little interlude.

 

Bamburgh Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Bamburgh Castle
Stunning views over the freshly plowed fields to the huge Bamburgh Castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Bamburgh Castle
And even more impressive close up.

 

The Farne Islands

Coastal Road Trip, The Farne Islands, Inner Farne Lighthouse, National Trust
Just passed Bamburgh Castle, the view over to The Farne Islands and Inner Farne Lighthouse.  The islands are famous for their seals and wide variety of seabirds.

 

Beadnell Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Beadnell Beach, Kite Surfing
Kite Surfing on Beadnell Beach.

 

Embleton & Newton Links

Coastal Road Trip, Embleton & Newton Links, National Trust, Beach, Sand Writing, Dunstanburgh Castle, Jarno
Jarno doing some more beach graffiti at the National Trust managed Embleton & Newton Links.  In the distance you can also spot Dunstanburgh Castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Embleton & Newton Links, National Trust, Beach, Sand Writing
Washed away…

 

Craster

Coastal Road Trip, Craster Harbour, Flower, Purple
A little bit of colour as rain clouds rolled in over Craster Harbour.
Coastal Road Trip, Craster, Dunstanburgh Castle, Sheep, Field
Dunstanburgh Castle that we had seen earlier from Embleton & Newton Links.  Now viewed from the south, walking across the fields from Craster.  A bit hazy due to the rain…

 

Alnwick Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Alnwick Castle, English Heritage, Jarno
The seat of the Duke of Northumberland, at our final castle of the day, Alnwick Castle, just outside the picturesque market town of Alnwick.

 

Amble Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Amble Beach, Coquet Island Lighthouse
The tiny Coquet Island and its lighthouse viewed from Amble Beach.

 

Low Hauxley

Coastal Road Trip, Low Hauxley, Beach, Black Rocks
Low Hauxley Beach.  Just a bit further along the beach a two-hundred meter long ancient forest has been uncovered by the sea cutting through the sand dunes.

 

Blyth

Coastal Road Trip, Blyth, Art, Wind Turbine, Industry
An interestingly arty and industrial coastline as the light faded passing through Blyth.

 

St Mary’s Lighthouse

Coastal Road Trip, St Mary's Lighthouse
St Mary’s Lighthouse across another causeway, at Whitley Bay.

 

Tynemouth

Coastal Road Trip, Tynemouth, Riley's Fish Shack, Night time
Ending the day with delicious fish tacos on the beach at Riley’s Fish Shack.  We then headed inland to Newcastle for the night.

 

Daily video

Day 29 – Glenrothes to Berwick upon Tweed

We started today by heading back east to the coast at Crail, as we’d run out of sunlight yesterday evening after leaving St Andrews.  From Crail we then looped back west along the coast, crossing the Firth of Forth before continuing along the coastline to Berwick upon Tweed.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, North Berwick, Telescope, Bass Rock
A telescope at North Berwick.

 

Crail

Coastal Road Trip, Crail, Harbour
A quiet Sunday morning on Crail seafront.

 

Pittenweem

Coastal Road Trip, Pittenweem, Harbour, Fishing Boats
Fishing boats gathered in Pittenweem Harbour.

 

Elie Ness

Coastal Road Trip, Elie Ness Lighthouse
A modern lighthouse on the headland at Elie Ness.

 

Lower Largo

Coastal Road Trip, Lower Largo, Alexander Selkirk Statue, Robinson Crusoe
A statue of Alexander Selkirk mounted on a house in Lower Largo, the inspiration behind Robinson Crusoe.
Coastal Road Trip, Lower Largo, Colourful Bollards
Colourful bollards on the Lower Largo seafront.

 

Dysart

Coastal Road Trip, Dysart Harbour, Kirkcaldy
Just outside Kirkcaldy, the quaint Dysart.
Coastal Road Trip, Dysart Harbour, Kirkcaldy, Sea Beams, Donald Urquhart, 9 vertical oak beams, blue, sea different light,
And an interesting coastal art installation by Donald Urquart just by the harbour.  The 9 huge vertical beams painted to represent the colour of the sea under different light.

 

Aberdour Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Aberdour Castle, Julian, Jarno
Yep, no idea either, but we seemed to be enjoying ourselves at Historic Scotland’s Aberdour Castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdove Castle, Beehive shaped Doocot, Dovecote, Pigeon, Dove, House
We weren’t sure what this building was on the terraced gardens that lead down to the castle orchard.  Anyway, it turned out to be an unusual beehive shaped doocot.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdove Castle, Beehive shaped Doocot, Dovecote, Pigeon, Dove, House, Inside
And inside the doocot, looking to the sky.

 

Firth of Forth Bridges

Coastal Road Trip, Firth of Forth, Crossing, Forth Road Bridge
Crossing over the Forth Road Bridge.  It was really busy, with lots of police and tourists around, then we realised it was the opening week of the new Queensferry Crossing bridge.
Coastal Road Trip, Firth of Forth, Forth Road Bridge, Queensferry Crossing bridge
From South Queensferry, looking back to the Forth Road Bridge, and the new Queensferry Crossing behind.
Coastal Road Trip, Firth of Forth, Queensferry Crossing bridge, Pedestrians
The Queen would be visiting to officially open the new bridge tomorrow.  In the meantime the bridge was open for pedestrians to cross.
Coastal Road Trip, Firth of Forth, Forth Rail Bridge
And the equally impressive Forth Rail Bridge sitting opposite the other two bridges.    OK, enough bridges for the day…

 

Royal Yacht Britannia

Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia
As we skirted around the north of Edinburgh we decided to make a stop at the Royal Yacht Britannia, one of the highlights of our day.
Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia, Dining Room
In service from 1954 to 1997, and now kept as a museum piece.  A fascinating insight into the royal life on the seas.
Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia, Rolls Royce
The Royal Roller kept on board for visits to local Kings and Queens.
Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia, Verge Inn, Royal pub, Corgi, Julian, Jarno, Beer
Having a royal beer in the royal pub with the royal corgi.  Love the bar name 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia, Games, Operation, Monopoly, Cluedo, Scrabble,
So The Queen likes a game of Operation!   Good for her.
Coastal Road Trip, Royal Yacht Britannia, Washing Machines, Corgi, Launderette
Royal washing machines in the royal launderette.

 

North Berwick

Coastal Road Trip, North Berwick, Law
North Berwick in the shadow of the Law hill.   A lovely little town and harbour.
Coastal Road Trip, North Berwick, Coloured doors, Storage, Harbour
Colourful doors in the harbour boatyard.
Coastal Road Trip, North Berwick, Telescope, Bass Rock
A handy telescope to view Bass Rock, 3 miles out to sea in the outer part of the Firth of Forth.

 

Bass Rock

Coastal Road Trip, Bass Rock, Lighthouse
White from bird life.  Thousands of gannets visit the island every year, and as many as 150,000 in high season!   Poor lighthouse, bet that needs repainting quite a bit!
Coastal Road Trip, Bass Rock, Lighthouse
We tried to zoom in, this is about as close as we could get.  You can just about make out the thousands of gannets hogging every bit of the island and circling in the sky.

 

Tantallon Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Tantallon Castle, Field
The red sandstone Tantallon Castle, as we drove east out of North Berwick.

 

Torness

Coastal Road Trip, Torness Nuclear Power Station
Another regular along our trip, every few days passing a coastal power station.  This time Torness Nuclear Power  Station, peeping over the blurred fields as we drove past along the A1 to the Scottish border and Berwick upon Tweed.

 

Daily video

Day 28 – Aberdeen to Glenrothes

Wow, another beautiful day in Scotland.  We will spend the morning in Aberdeen, before following the coastline down to Dundee, then across to St Andrews, before cutting slightly inland for the evening at Glenrothes.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Montrose, Scurdie Ness, South Esk, Lighthouse
Scurdie Ness Lighthouse.

 

Aberdeen

Coastal Road Trip, Aberdeen, The Listener, Sculpture, Trumpet, History, Urban Myth
Exploring some street sculptures in Aberdeen centre, here the trumpet like ‘The Listener’.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdeen, William Wallace, Statue, Aberdeen St. Mark's Church of Scotland
The Scottish knight Sir William Wallace, with the dome of St. Mark’s Church in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdeen, St. Mary's Cathedral
St. Mary’s Cathedral, a service was in progress, so we didn’t go in.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdeen, River Dee, City Scape, Torry Point Battery, Jarno
Jarno viewing his empire.  OK, just checking out the view over Aberdeen and the River Dee from Torry Point Battery.
Coastal Road Trip, Aberdeen, River Dee, Torry Point Battery, South Breakwater, Ship
A ship leaving the bustling Aberdeen Harbour past the South Breakwater.
Coastal Road Trip, Coast Road, Doonies Farm, Cove, Road, Train Track, Path, Bridge
And the same ship in the distance as we drove south along the coast road out towards Cove.  A road, railway line and footpath all following the same coastal route out of Aberdeen.

 

Dunnottar Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Dunnottar Castle, Stonehaven
The remains of the medieval Dunnottar Castle perched on near vertical cliffs over the North Sea.  It was super busy this Saturday lunchtime.  As we had a long way to travel still, we didn’t stay long, continuing on towards Stonehaven.

 

Catterline Bay
Coastal Road Trip, Catterline Bay, Todd Head Lighthouse
The almost perfect arc of Catterline Bay, with Todd Head Lighthouse peeking over the headland in the far distance.

 

Scurdie Ness

Coastal Road Trip, Montrose, Scurdie Ness, South Esk, The Beacons
Just past Montrose we parked up at Ferryden, then walked along the South Esk River to the old nautical navigation beacons.
Coastal Road Trip, Montrose, Scurdie Ness, South Esk, Lighthouse
Then around the corner we arrived at Scurdie Ness Lighthouse.
Coastal Road Trip, Montrose, Scurdie Ness, South Esk, Dolphins
As we walked along we were followed by a pod of dolphins playing in the South Esk.
Coastal Road Trip, Montrose, Scurdie Ness, South Esk, Dolphins
They seemed to be having great fun.

 

Arbroath

Coastal Road Trip, Arbroath Abbey, Julian, Jarno
Checking out the remains of Arbroath Abbey.  We’ve really had our fair share of castle, cathedral and abbey remains along this trip 😉
Coastal Road Trip, Arbroath Signal Tower Museum
Arbroath Signal Tower Museum on the sea front.

 

Dundee

Coastal Road Trip, Dundee, The McManus Dundee's Art Gallery & Museum
The McManus, Dundee’s Art Gallery & Museum.
Coastal Road Trip, Dundee, Desperate Dan Statue, Jarno
A cartoonish character in a funny hat, and Desperate Dan.

 

St Andrews

Coastal Road Trip, St Andrews, Castle
The evening light on St Andrews’ Castle (yes, another ruin).
Coastal Road Trip, St Andrews, Castle, Entrance, Bridge
As it was late in the day, the castle was now closed, so we wandered around the outside of the castle and the charming St Andrew’s lanes.
Coastal Road Trip, St Andrews, Cobbled Street
All was quiet, now that most of the tourists had left for the day.
Coastal Road Trip, St Andrews, Cobbled Street, Cottage
A typical stone cottage on the way back to our car.  Next stop Glenrothes for the night.

 

Daily video

 

 

Day 27 – Elgin to Aberdeen

The weather was superb for day twenty-seven of our trip, what a difference a bit of blue sky and sunshine makes (especially for the pictures).   We made full use of our Historic Scotland membership today too, saving quite some cash on the three of their properties we visited.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Silverford, Fields, Corn fields, Golden, Sea
Rolling fields of golden wheat in the late afternoon Scottish sunlight.

 

Elgin Cathedral

Coastal Road Trip, Elgin Cathedral, Historic Scotland
Our first Historic Scotland visit of the day at the 12th century Elgin Cathedral.  Some great exhibitions in the towers, quite a labyrinth of passageways up steep stone stairs.

 

Spynie Palace

Coastal Road Trip, Spynie Palace, Historic Scotland
Looking down on part of the remains from the lookout at the top of Spynie Palace.

 

Lossiemouth

Coastal Road Trip, Lossiemouth, Covesea Skerries Lighthouse
Yay, more lighthouses today, starting at Covesea Skerries Lighthouse, just west of Lossiemouth.

 

Fochabers

Coastal Road Trip, Fochabers, Baxters, Soup, Factory
Good timing, we were just getting hungry when we spotted Baxters visitors centre on the map!
Coastal Road Trip, Fochabers, Baxters, Shop, Julian
Playing shopkeeper.
Coastal Road Trip, Fochabers, Baxters, Soup, Sandwich, Lunch
A mug of Baxters soup for lunch, despite it being a lovely day (not really soup weather really), we had to try the local delicacy.

 

Findochty

Coastal Road Trip, Findochty, Harbour, Statue, Correna Cowie, The Mannie, These see the works of the lord and his wonders in the deep, psalm 107
The Mannie statue of a fisherman by Correna Cowie….
Coastal Road Trip, Findochty, Harbour, Statue, Correna Cowie, The Mannie, Sunstar, These see the works of the lord and his wonders in the deep, psalm 107
… keeping careful watch over Findochty Harbour.

 

Portknockie

Coastal Road Trip Portknockie, West view
Views west over the rugged coastline from Portknockie.
Coastal Road Trip Portknockie, Bow Fiddle Rock, Canoe
Canoeists dwarfed by Bow Fiddle Rock, which looked more like an elephants head if you ask us.

 

Cullen

Coastal Road Trip, Cullen, Bay, Beach, Seagulls
Hundreds of seagulls picking between the pebbles on Cullen Beach.

 

Portsoy

Coastal Road Trip, Portsoy, Harbour, Lifesaver
The quiet harbour at Portsoy, apparently often used for filming and commercials.
Coastal Road Trip, Portsoy, Harbour, Jumping Dolphin, Statue, Sculpture, Carn Standing
A jumping dolphin sculpture by the artist Carn Standing in the harbour.

 

Duff House

Coastal Road Trip, Banff, Duff House, Historic Scotland, Julian, Jarno
The impressive Duff House at Banff.  Again we seemed to pick a good time to visit.  We were the only visitors this afternoon,  so we had the helpful Historic Scotland guides all to ourselves.
Coastal Road Trip, Banff, Duff House, Historic Scotland, Chandelier
Just a little taste of the restored interiors.  Actually there was a fab Picasso on display (Les Soles, 1940), but sadly no pictures allowed (other than personal use), so Google it 😉

 

Silverford

Coastal Road Trip, Silverford, Fields, Corn fields, Golden, Sea
The views over the golden fields near Silverford (along the B9031), breathtaking in the late afternoon sunlight.
Coastal Road Trip, Silverford, Fields, Corn fields, Golden, Sea
So we ended up taking just a ‘few’ pictures, here are a selection…
Coastal Road Trip, Silverford, Fields, Hey Bales, Golden, Birds
The locales enjoying the fresh hay bales.
Coastal Road Trip, Silverford, Fields, Corn Fields, Golden, Wind Turbine
And a solitary wind turbine, nature and technology in harmony.

 

Crovie

Coastal Road Trip, Crovie, Viewpoint, Fishing village
The tiny fishing village of Crovie clinging to the waters edge.  No space for cars, just a small access path along the front.

 

Pennan

Coastal Road Trip, Pennan, Fishing village, Panoramic
Then just a little further along at Pennan, we could make it down the tiny coastal lane into the village, just.
Coastal Road Trip, Pennan, Fishing village, Table, Chairs
No back gardens, so everything happens on the seafront….
Coastal Road Trip, Pennan, Washing Line
..including hanging out the washing.
Coastal Road Trip, Pennan, Red, Phone Box, Local Hero, Ferness, Film, Julian
The phone box made famous by the film ‘Local Hero’ (staring Burt Lancaster), actually we haven’t seen the film.. but will do now.

 

Mounthooly Doocot
Coastal Road Trip, Mounthooly Doocot
Another dove house, we seem to be making a habit of this.

 

Fraserburgh

Coastal Road Trip, Fraserburgh, Museum of Scottish Lighthouses,
Two lighthouses at Fraserburgh’s Museum of Scottish Lighthouses, one old and one new.
Coastal Road Trip, Fraserburgh, Museum of Scottish Lighthouses, Buoy Park, Red Buoy
And a collection of disused brightly painted Buoys.

 

Rattray Head

Coastal Road Trip, Rattray Head, Lighthouse
Our final stop of the day, as we tried to get closer to Rattray Head to view the lighthouse.  However, the track became increasingly narrow and bumpy and we weren’t sure if we were now on someone’s private drive.  So we took some photos, somehow managed a U turn in the tightest of spaces, then continued our drive down to Aberdeen.

 

Daily video

Day 26 – Invergordon to Elgin

A day full of contrasts as we drove south from Invergordon to Elgin, again a beautiful coastline, but dotted with off-shore oil & gas rigs.  We would have loved to have seen the coastline prior to the North Sea oil & gas finds, but appreciate it also greatly supports the locally economy (clearly evident).

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot, Fields, Birds
The local birdlife taking advantage of the freshly mown fields near Boath Doocot.

 

Invergordon

Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty Firth, Invergordon, Oil Rig
A typical sight along this coastline, oil and gas rigs, set against the rolling Scottish coastline and countryside.

 

Storehouse of Foulis

Coastal Road Trip, The Storehouse of Foulis, Cromarty Firth, Sundial
Synchronising watches old school style at the busy Storehouse of Foulis.  A local museum, shop and restaurant (busy for breakfast).

 

Cromarty

Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Lighthouse
The Cromarty Lighthouse, no longer working, and now used by the University of Aberdean as a field station for the University’s School of Biological Science.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Butterfly
And as we walked around the quaint little streets of Cromarty, we came across this bush full of life with tens of butterflies…
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Bee
…and busy bees.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Hugh Miller's Cottage, National Trust for Scotland
Hugh Miller’s Cottage, the birthplace of the Scott famous for his early geology, writing and social justice.  The cottage, museum and garden is maintained by the National Trust for Scotland.  It was very quiet, we seemed to be the only visitors this morning.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Street, Shop
Pottering around the Cromarty streets.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, Oil Rigs
The view over Cromarty Firth, again such a contrast from the idyllic Cromarty.
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, The Egg Box, Jarno
How cool is this?!  Never seen one of these before, an egg vending machine on road side.  Looked a bit like Febo – the Dutch will understand ;-).
Coastal Road Trip, Cromarty, The Egg Box, Vending Machine
Pop your money in, and pick-up some fresh eggs.

 

Chanonry Point

Coastal Road Trip, Chanonry Point
Heading over to the Moray Firth, and crossing yet another golf course, we arrived at Chanonry Point.  Seemed to be super busy for a lighthouse.  Then we realised that everyone was waiting to spot Bottlenose Dolphins,  and sure enough they turned-up, check-out the video at the bottom of the blog.  One of the best viewing places in the world!

 

Fortrose

Coastal Road Trip, Fortrose, Cathedral
The remains of Fortrose Cathedral, at its peak, twenty-one Canons and five vicars served here.
Coastal Road Trip, Fortrose, Cathedral
The chapter house at Fortrose Cathedral, the only section that was still in one piece.

 

Inverness

Coastal Road Trip, Inverness
Inverness was a bit of a surprise to us, on the map it looks so remote, but when we arrived we could have been in any decent sized bustling British market town.  Julian got a haircut, then we had a quick look at the castle.  We stocked up on socks (35 days on the road requires a lot of socks!) and sunglasses for Julian, replacing a pair lost somewhere in the highlands (yay – no more squinting in selfies).  We contemplated heading inland to go Loch Ness Monster spotting, but then decided to not get distracted and keep to the coastline…

 

Fort George

Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Bridge
A drawbridge at the huge Fort George.  Unfortunately we arrived just before closing, and as it is still a working army base they were strict on closing times, so we made do with our own tour around the perimeter grounds.
Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Walls
So many walls!
Coastal Road Trip, Fort George & The Highlanders' Museum, Chanonry Point, Lighthouse
Looking back over the Morray Firth to the crowds gathered at Chanory Point, on the lookout for Bottlenose Dolphins.

 

Boath Doocot

Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot
To be honest, not the most interesting thing, but along our route to Elgin so we made a quick stop.   A dove house atop a 12th century castle (now just a mound).
Coastal Road Trip, Boath Doocot, Fields, Birds
But great views over the fields south of Nairn.

 

Daily video

 

Day 25 – Lybster to Invergordon

Today we will drive 107 miles on our journey along the North Sea down to the Dornoch and Cromarty Firths.  Probably one of our shorter journeys, but still we have a lot to see, so let’s hit the road!

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Dalmation, Waiting, Sitting in Car
A patient chauffeur, waiting at Dunrobin Castle.

 

Lybster Harbour

Coastal Road Trip, Lybster, Harbour, Lighthouse
The sun rising in the sky over the cosy Lybster Harbour.

 

Dunbeath Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Latheron, Views South, Dunbeath Bay
Views south from Latheron along the rugged coast to Dunbeath Bay.

 

Laidhay Croft Museum

Coastal Road Trip, Laidhay croft museum, Jarno
We stopped by the Laidhay Croft Museum (keys from the coffee shop next door).  Absolutely packed with antiques and household goods from the crofting era.

 

Badbea

Coastal Road Trip, Badbea Clearance Village
All that remains from this tiny clearance village at Badbea.
Coastal Road Trip, Badbea Clearance Village, View to North Sea
The unspoiled views over the cliffs out to the North Sea.  Fine on a calm day like today, but must have been rough living at the top of these cliffs on a stormy day.

 

Helmsdale

Coastal Road Trip, Helmsdale, Church Tower
The church tower peeping through the tree tops in Helmsdale.

 

Brora

Coastal Road Trip, Brora, Golf Club, Golf Course
The Scottish coast was littered with Golf courses, all with stunning views.

 

Carn Liath

 

Coastal Road Trip, Carn Liath, Iron Age Broch, Settlement, A9
An amazingly well preserved Iron Age broch at Carn Liath (a round house), just a couple of minutes north of Dunrobin Castle.

 

Dunrobin Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle
The extravagant Dunrobin Castle, the family seat of the Earl of Sutherland and the Clan Sutherland.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Garden
The impressive French influenced gardens viewed from the castle.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Falconry Display
We stopped by a fun falconry display in the garden.
Coastal Road Trip, Dunrobin Castle, Dalmation, Waiting, Sitting in Car
Patiently waiting for Cruella De Vil in the castle car park.

 

Dornoch

Coastal Road Trip, Dornoch, Beach, 2 minute beach clean, Jarno
What a great idea at Dornoch Beach, encouraging visitors to a 2 minute beach litter clean.  Dornoch itself was a beautiful village.   Clearly the locals were looking after the area.

 

Tarbat Ness

Coastal Road Trip, Tarbat Ness
After all the yellow and white lighthouses we’d seen along our coastal road trip, it was refreshing to find a lovely red and white stripey one at Tarbat Ness! 😉

 

Baltintore

Coastal Road Trip, Balintore, Mermaid of the North, Seaboard Villages
Driving along the coast of the Seaboard villages we arrived at the Mermaid of the North atop ‘Clach Dubh’ (black rock) at Balintore.

 

Arabella

Coastal Road Trip, Arabella, Eastern Ross-shire, Wind Turbine, Sun, Clouds, Fields
On our way to Invergordon for the evening, hazy evening views across the countryside near Arabella.  Wind turbines became a really familiar sight whether on land or off shore along our journey.

 

Daily video

Day 24 – Bettyhill to Lybster

Great weather on day twenty-four as we set-off to the most northeasterly point of Britian.  Plenty of lighthouses and a few castles along the way.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother
Castle of Mey, previously the Queen Mother’s Scottish pad.

 

Armadale

Coastal Road Trip, Armadale, Small bay, Reismeave
After heading east out of Bettyhill we made our first stop of the day at Armadale, where we found this small bay hidden at the end of a farm track beyond Reismeave.  There was a winch and basket down to the bottom of the steep cliffs, we assumed for fishing.
Coastal Road Trip, Armadale, Drying fishing nets, Reismeave
At the top of the cliff there were these great masts, at first we thought it was some kind of radio aerial, then we realised they were for hanging and drying the fishing nets.

 

Strathy Point

Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Julian, Jarno
First of many lighthouses today at Strathy Point.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse
Actually, no longer a working lighthouse, but holiday lets.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Armadale Bay
The view back west along the coast towards Armadale Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Armadale Bay
Very choppy waters!
Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Point, Lighthouse, Rocks, Sea, Crashing Waves
Waves crashing against the rocks.

 

Strathy Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Strathy Beach
At Strathy Beach the waters were calm, quite a contrast from the rough waters around the corner at Strathy Point.

 

Portskerra

Coastal Road Trip, Portskerra, Bay
A small quiet cove at the far end of Portskerra.

 

Sandside Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Sandside, Bay, Beach, Dounreay
We were going to stop at Sandside Beach for a picnic, and wondered why no one else was around…
Coastal Road Trip, Sandside, Bay, Beach, Dounreay Nuclear Power Station Warning
… then we got some clues from this sign, we moved on.

 

St Mary’s Chapel

Coastal Road Trip, St Mary's Chapel Ruin, Crosskirk, Sheep, Bay
The 12th century St Mary’s Chapel on top of cliffs near Crosskirk.

 

Dunnet Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Bay, Castlehill, Flagstone, Trail, Windmill, Dunnet Head
The remains of a windmill at the Castlehill Flagstone Trail, with Dunnet Head in the background.

 

Dunnet Head

Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Head, Lighthouse, Most northerly point of mainland Britain
So we’ve visited the most westerly point of mainland Britain at Ardnamurchan Point, and now we’re at the most northerly point at Dunnet Head.  Plus another Lighthouse as a bonus!
Coastal Road Trip, Dunnet Head, Scarfskerry
On the way back to the main road we caught these views looking east towards Scarfskerry.

 

Castle of Mey

Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother
A royal stop on our tour!  Castle of Mey, previously owned by The Queen Mother as one of her private residences.  Fascinating to look around.  Although grand, it also felt surprisingly homely with many grandma type knick-knacks here and there.  The guides were great, very enthusiastic and informative, clearly they were very proud to work there.
Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother, Gardens, Wheelbarrow
Lots of colour in the walled garden
Coastal Road Trip, Castle of Mey, Queen Mother, Gardens, Flowers
Full of blooming flowers.

 

John o’Groats

Coastal Road Trip, John o'Groats, Julian, Jarno
Such tourists!  Yay, made it to John o’Groats in the northeastern corner of Scotland.  To Jarno’s delight, named after a Dutchman John de Groot.

 

Duncansby Head

Coastal Road Trip, Duncansby Head, Lighthouse, Muckle Skerry, Pentland Skerries High and Low Lighthouses
Just a few miles east of John o’Groats, we arrived at Duncansby Head Lighthouse.  In the distance you can see Muckle Skerry,  with the Pentland Skerries High and Low Lighthouses.  Three lighthouses in one picture, bargain!
Coastal Road Trip, Duncansby Head, Stacks of Duncansby
Then looking back south we could see over to the spectacular Stacks of Duncansby.

 

Ackergill Tower

Coastal Road Trip, Ackergill Tower, Sheep
We spotted Ackergill Tower whilst looking for Castle Sinclair Girnigoe.  Now a hotel, but looked very neat on the waters edge so stopped for a quick photo.

 

Noss Head

Coastal Road Trip, Noss Head, Lighthouse
Our final lighthouse of the day at Noss Head, just north of Wick.

 

Castle Sinclair Girnigoe

Coastal Road Trip, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe
Just to the west of Noss Head, we took a short hike down a track to the remains of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe.  Actually two castles (15th and 17th century) merged into one.  Perched precariously on rocks over Sinclair Bay, it was great that we could ramble around the remains, but it did somehow feel that it might collapse at any minute!
Coastal Road Trip, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, Sunset, Field
A final look back at Castle Sinclair Girnigoe as the sun started to set, before continuing on to Wick and then Lybster for the night.

 

Daily video

Day 23 – Durness to Bettyhill

We got up early today to catch the small passenger ferry across the Kyle of Durness, and then on to Cape Wrath via minibus.  However, due to poor weather, the ferry was not operating today.  So we’ll have to leave that adventure for another trip 😉   As we now had an extra half day on our hands, we decided to continue our journey to Bettyhill, arrive early and have a well deserved afternoon relaxing.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, The Moine, A’ Mhoine, Peat Bog, A838, Straight Empty Road
The empty A838 over the Moine.

 

Keoldale

Coastal Road Trip, Keoldale, Cape Wrath Ferry, Kyle of Durness
Well that’s where we were meant to be sailing on the ferry to the other side of the Kyle of Durness.  You can just about make out the ferry landing through the rain… if not, use your imagination.
Coastal Road Trip, Keoldale, Cape Wrath Ferry, Kyle of Durness, Julian, Jarno
Not sure why we are looking so happy, actually we were a bit gutted that we couldn’t visit Cape Wrath today.

 

Sango Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Durness, Sango Bay, Sango Sands
The beaches were again remarkable, fine sand, clear waters, just a shame it was a bit cold and wet for August!

 

Ceannabeinne Beach

Coastal Road Trip, Durness, Ceannabeinne Beach
And just a minute or two east of Sango Beach we arrived at Ceannabeinne Beach, equally beautiful (and rainy).

 

Loch Eriboll

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Eriboll, Telephone box, Jarno
Photo of Jarno filming a phone box… OK, so there wasn’t so much to see.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Eriboll, Ard Neakie
A great view looking down on Ard Neakie in Loch Eriboll, connected to the mainland by a sand spit.

 

The Moine

Coastal Road Trip, The Moine, A’ Mhoine, Peat Bog, A838, Straight Empty Road
As we drove across the Moine along the A838 the land became quite flat all of a sudden.  If you look carefully you can see some coloured bags to the left of the road.  It turns out this was a peat bog, and peat was being dug and bagged.

 

Talmine Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Talmine Bay, Melness Coast, Kyle of Tongue, Shipwreck
A shipwreck along the Melness Coast at Talmine Bay.  The Kyle of Tongue and the Rabbit Islands in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Talmine Bay, Melness Coast, Kyle of Tongue, Beach, Cow
And yet another beach cow… this is getting weird.  She didn’t look too impressed to see us.

 

Tongue

Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Tongue, Tongue. Castle Varrich
Across on the east side of the Kyle of Tongue we tried to find our way to Castle Varrich, but without a detailed map, and no mobile reception we struggled.  As we’d already had our fair share of castles over the last few weeks, we decided to move on.

 

Bettyhill

Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Bay, Beach
Yay!  Suns out again as we reached Bettyhill and Torrisdale Bay.
Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Strathnaver Museum
Just east of Bettyhill we found the Strathnaver Museum, housed in the old parish church.  A great little place full of local artifacts and explanations about the clearances, with friendly helpful volunteers on hand.
Coastal Road Trip, Bettyhill, Bay, Sunset
And the view from our Bettyhill hotel as the sun set over Torrisdale Bay.

 

Daily video

Day 22 – Ullapool to Durness

Today we are driving up to Durness, as far northwest as you can get by car on the British mainland, and we’re probably going to some of the most remote areas of our road trip so far.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
Heading past Locha Chairn Bhain on the scenic B869.

 

Knockan Crag

Coastal Road Trip, Knockan Crag, Globe, Joe Smith, Julian, Jarno
The intriguing Globe rock sculpture by Joe Smith at Knockan Crag.   Just down the path behind us there was also an excellent information hut explaining about the geology and history of the area.

 

Ardvreck Castle

Coastal Road Trip, Ardvrek Castle, Julian, Jarno
Jarno managing a straight selfie photo… finally 😉  Behind us the ruins Ardvrek Castle on Loch Assynt, originally the 15th century seat of the MacLeods of Assynt.

 

Lochinver

Coastal Road Trip, Lochinver, Truck, Painting, Dragon, Fishermen
How cool is this?!   Can’t imagine there are many fish delivery trucks painted like this.

 

Rhicarn

Coastal Road Trip, Rhicarn, Red House
A cute little red house near Rhicarn.

 

Clachtoll

Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach
One big surprise as we drove north were the beautiful clean white beaches, with crystal clear waters.  Clachtoll Beach was typical of the many beautiful beaches we saw.
Coastal Road Trip, Clachtoll Beach, Fin Whale, Jaw, Skull, ,Car Park, Jarno
In the beach car park the jaw and skull of a Fin Whale that had got stranded on Raffin Beach in 2007.

 

Stoer

Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
There maybe trouble ahead.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer, Cows in road
I’m not sure who was more concerned, us or the cows, anyway the road ended up being (just) wide enough for all of us.
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse
Stoer Lighthouse, and it was for sale!  Interesting…
Coastal Road Trip, Stoer Lighthouse, Views
The steep cliffs below Stoer Lighthouse.

 

Locha Chairn Bhain

Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay
The craggy coast around Locha Chairn Bhain and Eddrachillis Bay was stunning.
Coastal Road Trip, Locha Chairn Bhain, Eddrachillis Bay, Road
The snaking road continued alongside Locha Chairn Bhain then on to Unapool.

 

Unapool

Coastal Road Trip, Unapool, Bench
..and we did just that, on this bench by the road just above Unapool.

 

Kylesku

Coastal Road Trip, Kylesku, Loch Gleann Dubh
Bright green grass on these mini islands on Gleann Dubh near Kylesku.

 

Assynt

Coastal Road Trip, Assynt, Quinag, Sail Ghorm, Rocky Ridge
Magnificent views back over the Assynt region (Norse for rocky ridge) to Quinag and Sail Ghorm.

 

Cranstackie

Coastal Road Trip, Cranstackie, A838
The final stretch north to Durness as we passed Cranstackie.   Despite the A838 being an ‘A’ road it was single track most of the way, reminding us that we really were in a remote location.

 

Kyle of Durness

Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale
Looking back along the Kyle of Durness from Keoldale.
Coastal Road Trip, Kyle of Durness, Keoldale, Cape Wrath, Ferry Crossing
At Keoldale we decided to stop and check out the ferry times to cross to Cape Wrath the following morning.  But the ferry didn’t run today due to the weather, so we’ll be back in the morning to check if it is crossing then…

 

Balnakeil Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Balnakeil Bay, Beach
We carried on to Balnakeil Bay, and wow what a beach.  Again we hadn’t imagined that the beaches would be so perfect or the water so clear, but it kind of makes sense seeing there are so few people to pollute them.

 

Smoo Cave

Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Bay
Then before stopping in Durness for the night we continued a little further east to Smoo Cave.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Tours
Inside Smoo Cave there was this little stand where tours could be arranged, but not today, again due to the weather.
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Entrance
However, despite no one being around, you could still enter the walkway into the first chamber…
Coastal Road Trip, Smoo Cave, Waterfall
… to view the Smoo Cave Waterfall.  A nice little surprise to finish the day.

 

Daily video

Day 21 – Gairloch to Ullapool

Day twenty-one will be full of lochs as we meander around Loch Gairloch, Loch Ewe, Gruinard Bay (not technically a loch, but almost), Little Loch Broom and finally Loch Broom.

 

Photo of the day

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Ullapool, Loch Broom, Blue sky, Reflection
Loch Broom.

 

Loch Gairloch

Coastal Road Trip, Gairloch, Loch Gairloch, Longa Island, Sunrise
We ended yesterday with a sunset view from our room.  Then this morning we woke to this beautiful view of Longa Island in Loch Gairloch.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Gairloch, Eilean Horrisdale, Reflections
Kicking the day off with a few more reflections along the road to Redpoint, first near Eilean Horrisdale.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Gairloch, Badachro, Boats, Reflections
Then these rather tired boats at Badachro, but still so picturesque.

 

Loch Tollaidh

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Tollaidh, Reflections
Heading over to Poolewe passing the small Loch Tollaidh.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Tollaidh, Blue boat
And another sinking boat…

 

Inverewe Garden

Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, House, National Trust for Scotland
Inverewe House in the Inverewe Garndens, now managed by the National Trust for Scotland (so we got our free entry).  Actually this was the second house built here, the original burnt down in a fire just over 100 years ago.
Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, Path, National Trust for Scotland
We arrived just as it opened, nice and quiet, great, until a coach load of tourists arrived, fortunately there were plenty of garden paths for all to get lost in.
Coastal Road Trip, Inverewe Gardens, Purple flower, National Trust for Scotland
Flowers!  Time for some close-ups.

 

Loch Ewe

Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Isle of Ewe, Cove, Anti-Aircraft Battery
Cove, at the the north western tip of the entrance to Loch Ewe, was littered with World War II Anti-Aircraft Battery.  Although unsafe to enter, it’s amazing that the concrete of these batteries has lasted so long.  Such a sharp contrast to their surroundings.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Cove, Beach
A secluded beach on a small peninsula along the road between Cove and Inverasdale.
Coastal Road Trip, Loch Ewe, Cove, Inverasdale, Poolewe, B8057, Road, Passing Point
Although many of the coastal roads in Scotland are single track (like the road between Poolewe and Cove), most have plenty of passing points, so we never had any problems.

 

Gruinard Bay

Coastal Road Trip, Gruinard Bay, Gruinard Island, Stream
A stream bubbling down to Gruinard Bay, with Gruinard Island in the background.
Coastal Road Trip, Gruinard Bay, Jarno
Views over Gruinard Bay and Jarno.

 

Corrieshalloch Gorge

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, View to Loch Broom
Before heading down into Corrieshalloch Gorge, we stopped to take in the very green views down the valley to Loch Broom.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Bridge
Unfortunately the bridge over Corrieshalloch Gorge had been closed a few days earlier for safety reasons, so we couldn’t get to the main lookout point.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Julian, Jarno
Trying to look down into the gorge… but we couldn’t see much.
Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Mushrooms, Toadstools
Along the gorge path Mushrooms or maybe Toadstools?

 

Loch Broom

Coastal Road Trip, Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, National Trust for Scotland, Ullapool, Loch Broom, Blue sky, Reflection
We started the day with a bright blue sky, and ended the day with a bright blue sky!  This was our view across Loch Broom as we sat on the pebble beach at Ullapool eating our fish and chip dinner.

 

Daily video